Ferry Meadows sitting on narrowboat

Question – Where along the river Nene can visiting family combine a boat trip with a steam train outing ?

Question – Which future King of England was born in 1452 at Fotheringhay Castle on the River Nene ? – Clue – His body was identified 527 years after his death under a Leicester ca-park.

Question – Which Queen was executed in 1587 at Fotheringhay Castle on the River Nene ? One summer morning in 2023 I was looking for a mooring in the lovely riverside City of Ely. There were no available spaces, but there was a Fox hire boat moored. Generally hire boats don’t stop in any one place for too long, and often leave by midmorning.

I ‘hovered’ close to the boat and gently inquired if they might be moving on before too long, and if they would mind me mooring alongside until they left – when I could take over the spot they had vacated.

They were lovely, friendly, people, and readily agreed. I asked them if they were enjoying their narrowboat holiday. They replied that they were “loving it”, at which point they recognised my boat from the cover of the river guide ‘Great Ouse and its tributaries’. “How did you wangle getting your Fox boat on the cover ?” they asked. “By writing the guide !” I replied.

They made me a cup of coffee and I regaled them with a few of those anecdotes which didn’t quite make it into the guide.  Just before they set off, they explained “this has been our first narrowboat holiday and we’ve definitely got the bug”. They asked “We’ve got the whole Country to choose from, where would you recommend we go next year?”

I didn’t even need to think before I replied “Go West ! When you leave Fox’s marina turn right toward the River Nene not left towards the River Great Ouse (like you did this year). The River Nene is one of the loveliest navigable rivers in all England !”

During my life I have lived in two towns (Bedford and St Neots), and one City (Ely), all on the Great Ouse, but I must sing the praises of the River Nene. On a cautionary note I must also warn you that “Nene’ is pronounced “Neen” downstream of Thrapston, and “Nen” upstream of Thrapston. As the farthest you are likely to get on a week’s hire is Oundle (leaving yourself sufficient time to get back to the hire base), or at the very most Thrapston, we can settle on calling the river ‘Neen’.

Leaving Fox’s marina you will travel first through the Middle Level towards Peterborough. On the Middle Level you could spend your first night afloat on the new visitor moorings in Ramsey.

Alternatively many boaters choose to use the new rural moorings on Whittlesey Dyke at either Burnthouse Bridge or Angle Corner (https://middlelevel.gov.uk/navigation/maps/). The popular third option is go through Ashline Lock and moor at the back of the Manor Leisure Centre in Whittlesey. The rural moorings will require you to cook on board, whereas both Ramsey and Whittlesey moorings offer a range of ‘eat out’ opportunities, restaurant or takeaway.

You need to book yourself in advance through Stanground Lock with the lock keeper, Tina,  on 07824 600470 (this is the only non ‘do-it-yourself’ lock you will encounter on your trip).

Stanground is approximately 6 hours from Ramsey,  3 hours from the Burnthouse rural mooring, 21/2 from the Angle Corner rural mooring, and 1 1/4 from the Manor Leisure Centre in Whittlesey. Lock Warning !  In the mid 17th Century a campaign was launched to make the River Nene navigable between Peterborough and Northampton. It was anticipated that 33 locks would be required to bypass the water mills. By the 18th Century, when the work was undertaken, 38 locks were required ! But don’t worry there are only 11 locks between Peterborough and Oundle. With a willing and helpful crew these shouldn’t be too much bother. And remember – locking is a vital part of the ‘narrowboat experience’!

Stanground Lock

Shortly after you have passed through Stanground lock you will find yourself in the historic cathedral city of Peterborough. There are ample moorings on Peterborough Embankment but these can get a bit noisy in the evening. There is a floating Chinese restaurant called the Grain Barge moored on the embankment. My wife and I often dine there on their ‘eat as much as you can for a fixed price’ menu when returning to home waters after visiting the canals.

Peterborough Town Bridge 1909

Often we choose to travel out of Peterborough for another 1 1/4  hours and moor instead at the lovely Ferry Meadows Park. These peaceful floating moorings are on a lake and you quite often get a good sunset, followed by a spectacular sunrise the next mooring. There is (car) parking at Ferry Meadows Park, and before now we’ve rendezvoused there with family. They’ve joined us on board for a pleasant river trip upstream as far as Wansford Station, where they’ve disembarked and caught a steam train on the Nene Valley Railway back to their car. A perfect family outing !

wansford station

Go West young man !

As you travel upstream you will pass through Water Newton Lock. The adjoining former mill has been converted into desirable apartments (though I don’t know if I’d make it right through the night with the ever present sound of running water without regular nocturnal visits to the ‘smallest room’). The scene just above the lock is as idyllic a river view as you could ever find. Have your cameras at the ready !

Wansford Station b

water newton

Water Newton b

The old bridge at Wansford carries the old Great North road (a.k.a. the A1) past the Haycock Inn dates from 1600 and is a scheduled ancient monument. The Haycock Inn is named from the story of an unfortunate traveller who, wary of sleeping in any Inn because of plague, spent the night in a hayrick. The river rose in the night and the traveller woke to find himself floating down the Nene. Disorientated, he asked someone on the riverbank where he was, and upon hearing the reply “Wansford”, asked, “Wansford in England?”. The name stuck, and Wansford is officially described as “in England”. The local Inns are now on the whole believed to be plague free !

Above Wansford you come to floating moorings from which you can access Wansford Station

(actually in Sibson). This is the headquarters of the Nene Valley Railway. An absolute must to visit ! The home of Thomas the Tank Engine and a host of historic steam engines, you can ride to as far as Peterborough enjoying a line that has, over the years,  been used for filming, amongst many others, Secret Army, a Queen rock video, Middlemarch, Goldeneye, and Murder on the Orient Express.

Next to Elton Lock stands a glorious abandoned mill (grade ll listed). There are moorings immediately above the lock. I’ve twice walked into the village and dined outside The Crown ph under a great spreading Horse Chestnut tree, where I’ve enjoyed as good a pub meal as ever I happen chanced upon!

Soon the English Perpendicular style octagonal tower of the great St Mary’s church of Fotheringhay appears on the horizon. St Mary’s has strong connections to the Yorkist cause in the Wars of the Roses.  The Dukes of York had a family mausoleum in the church.  Richard III was born at Fotheringhay Castle (demolished 1630) and Mary Queen of Scotts was executed there in 1587. There are private visitor moorings here. They are not expensive (£5/overnight) and the farmer collects your money shortly after you arrive. The village pub, The Falcon, is well spoken of for its food. Although (for some  inexplicable reason) I’ve not checked out the pub, I regularly moor at Fotheringhay.

Ashton Lock is near the village of Ashton which is a privately owned village, long associated with the Rothschild family. This private ownership is evidenced by all the front doors of the houses being painted the same colour. Ashton was the home every October of that important sporting competition – the National Conker Championship – until they moved 4 miles to Southwick near Oundle. There is a large colony of Red Kite around here, and I’ve witnessed 5 or 6 in one go, apparently following me up the river.

Oundle is a market town with a population of around 6,000, constructed in soft Northamptonshire Stone. Sadly Oundle appears to ‘turn its back’ on the river. But it’s worth crossing the adjoining flood meadow and visiting. There are often slightly fierce looking cattle grazing in the meadow, and I choose to cross it at the other end from them.

You will soon need to think about turning your bows downstream and returning the boat. If you’ve got sufficient time, the bridge at Lilford is as pretty a bridge as you’ll find anywhere.

It was said of the famous dancers Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers  “Fred was great, but don’t forget that Ginger did everything he did, backwards …. and in high heels !” Now you’ve got to Fotheringey, or Oundle or wherever the time left on your boat hire requires you to turn back and retrace your steps – just remember that the “Nene is just as beautiful backwards” (particularly if you’re wearing high heels ?). And like we do, you can always treat yourself to a Chinese meal on the way home, on the Grain Barge in Peterborough. Don’t forget to book yourself back through Stanground Lock.

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Northampton –

Becket’s Well

Becket’s Park is named after Thomas Becket, the Archbishop of Canterbury notoriously murdered in Canterbury Cathedral. Henry II had summoned Becket to appear before a great council at Northampton Castle in October 1164, to answer allegations of contempt. Becket drank from a well on the edge of the park. Convicted on the charges, Becket stormed out of the trial and fled to the Continent. In 1170 Becket returned to England, and further upset the King causing him to speak the words “will no-one rid me of this turbulent priest”, which resulted in Becket’s murder on 29 December 1170. These days there are water points available and drinking unprocessed water is not recommended !

Fotheringhay – worth a visit

fotheringhay church

This was the site of Fortheringhay Castle which has been very significant in English History. Richard III was born there in 1452 Mary, Queen of Scots, was tried and beheaded in 1587. The castle was razed in 1627, and there is nothing left other than the motte on which it was built which is worth climbing for the excellent views of the river Nene.

Views of the village are dominated by a particularly fine Perpendicular style church, dating in parts to the 15th Century. At the time of writing, the Church is unfortunately masked by scaffolding.

A local farmer charges for mooring.

Lilford Hall

As you pass through Lilford Lock and under the picturesque bridge you are entering Lilford Estate which is crowned by a Grade I listed, 15th Century, stately home. Although not open to the Public, the views through the trees of the grand house remind one of days long gone ! Remember to ‘doff your cap’ or ‘tug your forelock’ if you pass anyone on the bank who might possibly be aristocracy !

Wansford in England

Wansford is beautiful village largely built of mellow Northamptonshire Stone. The old bridge which carried the Great North road (a.k.a. the A1) past the Haycock Inn dates from 1600 and is a scheduled ancient monument.

The Haycock Inn is named from the story of an unfortunate traveller who, wary of sleeping in any Inn because of plague, spent the night in a hayrick. The river rose in the night and the traveller woke to find himself floating down the Nene. He asked a traveller on the riverbank where he was, and upon hearing the reply “Wansford”, asked, “Wansford in England?”. The name stuck, though the local Inns are now, we hope, plague free !

The next bridge carrying the rerouted A1 was constructed in 1929. For those of us who appreciate such odd things as cast concrete, its structure is particularly fine, including the words cast into it “County of Soke of Peterborough”.

The final bridge, which accommodated a second carriage way for the A1 was built in 1975. There has been a river crossing in Wansford since Saxon times, and the three bridges neatly summarise a large part of the history of bridge building.

Wansford Station – worth a visit

Nene Valley Railway, Wansford

The river meanders round a great bend after Wansford, before you come to floating moorings from which you can access Wansford Station (actually in Sibson). This is the headquarters of the Nene Valley Railway. An absolute must to visit ! The home of Thomas the Tank Engine and a host of historic steam engines, you can ride to Peterborough enjoying a line that has, over the years,  been used for filming, amongst many others, Secret Army, a Queen rock video, Middlemarch, Goldeneye, and Murder on the Orient Express.

Peterborough – Flag Fen worth a visit

Flag fen is one of the most important surviving Bronze Age sites in England, and possibly in all Europe ! It is home to a unique ancient wooden monument, a kilometre long wooden causeway and platform, perfectly preserved in the wetland. This was built and used by the Prehistoric fen people 3,500 years ago as a place of worship and ritual. 60,000 upright timbers and 250,000 horizontal planks are buried under the ground along with many swords and personal items given as offerings to the watery fen. These are on display in a visitor centre and give an unique insight into Bronze Age life.

It is a short walk North of the river Nene from the spectacular new Shanks Millenium Foot Bridge East of Peterborough. There are no dedicated moorings but ‘improvised’ mooring shouldn’t be difficult.

Ramsey Rural Museum – worth a visit

Ramsey Dock moorings

This quintessentially English, independent museum, contains an eclectic mix of articles from bygone ages. It evokes glorious memories of a past of village fetes and strawberries and cream.

Open from April through to October, all day on Thursdays, and in the afternoon on Saturdays, Sundays and Bank Holidays. Nearest moorings are either on the 40ft navigation near The George P.H. at Ramsey Forty Foot (2 miles away, but down a country road without a footpath) or on Ramsey High Lode, (1.4 miles away, past a 15th century Gothic gatehouse to a former Abbey)

Holme post – point of interest

Holme Post stands on the lowest land point in Great Britain at 9 ft below mean sea level. In 1851 it was decided to drain Whittlesey Mere (a boggy lake), and a 12ft cast iron post was driven vertically into the peat until the top of it was buried with its top level with the ground. The post was probably a reject casting originally intended for the Great Exhibition. As the peat dried the ground shrank and the post gradually emerged. Today all 12ft of the post is exposed, and a six foot extension has been added to the bottom of it.

Fen folk say that a drained mere will sink the height of a man, during the life of a man. Judging from the evidence of the now exposed post, the ground has sunk 18ft in 166 years, which rather confirms this old rule of thumb.

Holme Fen is quite a walk from the nearest navigable watercourse, which itself is quite remote from the main link route, which is why we’ve only included it as a ‘point of interest’, but if, like me, you are an anorak for the quirky and unusual historic artifact, then it’s a ‘must’.

Prickwillow Engine museum – well worth a visit

Formerly known as the Prickwillow Drainage Engine Museum, this is 2 miles up the river Lark from the river Great Ouse, and there are hard moorings close by. Drainage and the reclamation of land from the sea is key to the history of the fens. The museum contains a major collection of large diesel pumping engines, all of which have been restored to working order. The museum is generally open Saturdays, Sundays, Mondays & Tuesdays, in the afternoon, from Easter until the end of September, but it is advised to check their website before planning a visit.

The mystery smell – point of interest

During the high summer of 2017 many people reported a strong smell of cannabis, over a wide area between Denver Sluice and Ely.  Eventually it was revealed that there is a legal cannabis farm (for medical use) at a ‘secret location’ that was probably responsible for the odour. If the lower part of the River Great Ouse appears to contain an unusually ‘high’ number of hippy boaters, it is not that the live aboard population of Cambridge has suddenly relocated, but the search for the fabled ‘Mary Jane’ cannabis farm.

Queen Adelaide – point of interest

The first Oxford v Cambridge boat race took place in 1829 at Henley. The next race was held in 1836 on the Thames in London. The tradition has continued ever since, but only once has the race moved from London.

In 1944 London was judged too dangerous because of the V1 flying bombs and the race was held on the Queen Adelaide Straight near Ely.

Cambridge University have recently built a new boat house North East of Ely and you may well come across them practicing on the waters between Ely and Littleport. Although traditionally known as the ‘light blues’ their oars are now more green, allegedly caused by a past university boatman, who suffering from colour blindness, mixed increasing amounts of green into the paint for the oars over the years.

As always, care should be taken to minimise wash when passing rowing boats, but as an ‘Oxford rowing man’ I do condone the odd “boo” if you pass a Cambridge boat !

Ely Cathedral – well worth a visit

narrowboat holiday ely

The Cathderal is known as the ‘ship of the Fens’ because of its dominant position in the landscape, visible from miles away.  Its origins date back to 672 and the present building was started in 1083. It is an outstanding building, both for its size and detail. The entrance, lady chapel and choir have been described as “exuberant Decorated Gothic” and its most notable feature is the central octagonal tower, with lantern above. If you only visit one cathedral a year, this is the one to visit !

Ely has good moorings, and overstaying boats are regularly moved on, so you have a good chance of finding a mooring in this vey city.

Streatham Old Engine – worth a visit

Stretham Old Engine

Stretham Old Engine is a steam-powered engine on the Old West River, about 6 miles up river from Ely. There are decent moorings. The engine was used to pump water from flood-affected areas of The Fens back into the river Great Ouse. It will be open to the public on 18 afternoons in 2018, so it is advisable to check their website for opening dates.

Huntingdon – Hinchingbrooke House – worth a visit

Is an historic house built around an 11th-century Benedictine nunnery. After the Reformation it was owned by Oliver Cromwell, and later the Earls of Sandwich. The house is part of a school, and is also a wedding and conference venue, but is open for tours on Sunday afternoons and some bank holidays.

Huntingdon has limited moorings.

St Ives worth a visit

Fithteenth Century Chapel

The bridge in St Ives, and the chapel on the bridge, have about as varied history as any bridge possibly could ! The bridge is generally Gothic with pointed arches, other than two mismatched rounded arches. Oliver Cromwell ordered the demolition of  part of the bridge and the installation of a draw bridge, to hold back Charles 1st’s troops. When they were later rebuilt, they didn’t match. The building on the bridge was a chapel up until the dissolution of the monasteries, and since then has been a private house, a doctors surgery and a pub, called Little Hell.

There are three different sets of good moorings in St Ives.

You may be interested in our blog post Old River Port St Ives

Health Warning – Huntingdon & St Neots

Huntingdon’s most famous son, Oliver Cromwell, was in part responsible for the death of the only English King to be executed, Charles I. St Neots’ most infamous son, John Bellingham, shot the only English Prime Minister to be murdered in Office, Spencer Percival. The two towns are less than 10 miles apart and it is said that although their residents are generally hard to upset, but if you do, the results can be severe ! I should know, because, dear reader, I married one !

St Neots –

St Neots originally comprised two settlements Eaton Socon and Eynesbury with a Priory between them.  The name changed to St Neots when locals raided St Neot on Bodmin Moor in Cornwall in 980 and relieved them of their relics of the Saint and brought his bones back, as a ‘tourist attraction’.  There is a mosaic set in the Market Square with a depiction of the world famous Alfred Jewel, made in honour of St Neot for King Alfred, and kept at the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford.

Many places have ‘tall stories’ to tell, but St Neots has the genuine case of the James Toller, “The Eynesbury Giant”. Born in 1798, this unfortunate young man was 5ft 5in tall at the age of 10 and by the time of his death, aged 21, he stood over 8 feet tall.  He is commemorated by a plaque in the town and his story is told in the St Neots Museum.

In 1935 St Neots hit the front page of every news paper, with the birth of the Town’s own ‘fab four’ Ann, Ernest, Paul and Michael Miles, the first surviving quads, ever. They instantly became famous world wide and for years were adopted by Cow & Gate to advertise their products.

If you are wanting to visit these locations by hire boat check out our cruising times guide to help plan your trip.

The post Nene, Great Ouse and Middle Level Navigations – Points of interest, Places to visit appeared first on Fox Narrowboats.

with kind permission: Jan Pickles

The River Nene passes through Cambridgeshire and Northants where it connects the east of England to the rest of the UK waterway network. If you’re looking for a less-crowded narrowboat holiday where you can enjoy stunning countryside and attractive villages, these three narrowboating writers recommend these three moorings.

1) Wadenhoe

Blogger and narrowboater Sue from nb No Problem has been cruising the waterways and canals of England since 2000 when they bought their first narrowboat to retire on. She loves cruising the East Anglian rivers with her husband Vic and border collies Meg and Penny. The Nene is her favourite river and she advises taking it slow so that you can enjoy the beautiful lock surroundings with ancient mills. She recommends stopping in Wadenhoe Village and checking out stone cottages, thatched rooves, the post office, and the Kings Head. Wadenhoe House is a Jacobean 17C manor house, once home to the Delacy family who were found to be involved in the Gunpowder Plot.

2) Earls Barton

Jan Pickles (co-author of UK River and Canal Info) has a 58ft traditional narrowboat called ‘Drifter’. She says, “We love the peace and tranquillity of the River Nene, as opposed to canals at this time of year. It’s much cheaper for us to buy a gold licence as we spend most of our time down on the Nene.

There are few designated moorings here. The land is all pretty much privately owned by farmers etc, so it’s not the same as the canals where you can pretty much moor anywhere you like.

With the Nene you have to think a little more carefully about where to attempt a bankside mooring. This usually involves me watching over the bow to ensure there’s enough depth and I carry a pair of shears for the few thistles and stingy nettles.

We love Earls Barton. You can now easily moor as a visitor at Whitemills Marina (lock 9) and it’s about a 20 minute walk into a lovely little town, which boasts its own butchers and bakery, fire station and lovely tea rooms.”

3) Wansford Station

Jan says, “Wansford Station has a 48 hour Environment Agency mooring where you can watch the steam train of the Nene Valley Railway chuff by. There’s a tea room there too.”

Amy-Alys Tillson lives aboard a 70 foot historic narrowboat in Cambridge, M.B Willow. She also likes to stop at the EA mooring at Wansford on the Nene because of the Nene Valley Railway. “You can stop and hop on a steam train to Yarwell or Peterborough.” She also recommends the twin villages of Upwell and Outwell for pretty village walks and churches.

Jan Pickles says, “Many new boaters are worried about the Nene because she does have a tendency to flood. We have found however that you just need to be sensible, register for strong stream advice and always keep one eye on the weather. Even when the weather is good, we never tie ropes too tight.”

You may like to read more about the Nene’s top attractions and check out the Fox holiday routes that cover the Nene here: River Nene. Our narrowboat holidays on The Nene can be taken as a week, weekend break or midweek breaks. Check availability today: River Nene Narrowboat Holidays

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