Approaching Denver lock where several cruisers are waiting – cc John Revell

This was my first time entering Salters Lode lock from the tidal Ouse and I was grateful to receive good advice from the Denver lock keeper about how to do this on an in-coming tide.

A fine converted mill at Nordelph. This has been extended but remains very distinct. John Revell

The familiar view as you approach the centre of Nordelph. The Chequers pub on the right closed in 2005.

The journey along Well Creek was uneventful though I recall being intrigued by a simple swing bridge across the river to a small cottage near Nordelph. I learnt later that this belonged to Gladys Dack and her name lives on with the Gladys Dack mooring constructed by the Well Creek Trust on the opposite side of the river. The cottage is now derelict having been badly damaged by a gas explosion which fortunately did not injure Miss Dack.

Glady Dack’s cottage and simple swing bridge. The house was badly damaged by a gas explosion and is now derelict.

After Well Creek and Marmont Priory lock we headed down Pophams Eau and moored near the junction of the Sixteen Foot and Forty Foot rivers. The following day we attempted to reach Horseways lock but gave up when we discovered there was nowhere to turn at the lock. We had to reverse to the junction with the Forty Foot which was something I have done many times since. On one occasion in 2010 this was part of a campaign cruise undertaken by the local branch of the Inland Waterways Association (IWA) which was broadcast on BBC Look East. Alastair Chambers, then Chairman of the Peterborough Borough Branch of the IWA, spoke to the camera while I just had to do the reversing.

I failed to boat the full length of the Forty Foot when I visited the Middle Level in April 1984 {see part 1} and it was a relief to get under the very low Ramsey Hollow bridge without mishap or injuring myself this time. Note that this bridge has since been raised by the Royal Engineers partly with funds raised by the local IWA at events held at Bill Fen marina [courtesy of John and Lynne Shotbolt].

Ramsey basin. Gang plank for access to town but nowhere to turn a 48′ boat round.

That evening was spent at the George Inn at Ramsey Forty Foot where we again added our name to the boater’s log book kept behind the bar before continuing the next day to Ramsey town. My notes record that this was easy boating with a good mooring at the end but nowhere to turn a 48‘ boat like mine.

We explored the town, ate fish and chips and visited the Jolly Sailor, a pub which has changed very little since then and which I last visited in September 2023.

My notes from 1984 state “Jolly Sailor. 6/10. Choice of rooms. Landlord ex RAF. Lots of brasses and locals. Beer by (Watney) Manns.

The moorings at Ramsey deteriorated over the years but have now been completely rebuilt to a high standard. There are also recently built houses on both sides. A turning point has also been provided and I have seen a 60’ narrow-boat turn there.

Plenty of help and onlookers at Lodes End lock

There was no turning point in 1984 so the following morning we therefore had to reverse all the way which took 90 mins. We then went through Lodes End lock and headed for Yaxley. Unfortunately, and not for the only time, we could not get under Exhibition Bridge which was too low to get under so we proceeded to Monk’s Lode where we moored overnight at the end of navigation.

At the end of Monk’s Lode

Our view that this was a very quiet spot was confirmed by a conversation the next day with a local man. He said that the only boats he saw these days were weed boats but this was a shame as he was looking for a wife (presumably to drift past and into his arms). This conversation took place in August when some waterways elsewhere would have been very busy. I reversed a short way and turned near an old pumping station. Monks Lode remains entirely unspoilt but the turning point is overgrown so reversing is needed for most boats.

After another quiet day we paid our second visit to C & T Fox boat yard. My notes say

“Helpful and business like. Diesel £1.20 a gallon. Mooring £6.62 per week”

We also visited the Horse and Jockey pub which was a short distance from the boatyard but has since been demolished before spending the evening in the Red Hart at Three Holes (an Elgoods pub which is also now closed).

Approaching Outwell before the church. A familiar scene still today.

We made our way to Salters Lode the next day, stopping for fish and chips at J R Stott Outwell (still there) and a drink at the Red Lion at Outwell (a splendid looking building on the busy main road, still there but no longer a pub – the prominent Bullards brewery sign  remains) and the Chequers at Nordelph (another closed pub).

Just before Outwell basin and the former junction with the Wisbech canal.

We had chosen to return via the tidal Hundred Foot (New Bedford). We went through Salters Lode at low water and waited outside for the big spring tide to arrive. We set off with the tide and reached the Riverside Inn at Earith by lunchtime. I have used this tidal route many times since then all without difficulty.

[photos]

All Photos Copyright John Revell

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Carol negotiating a low bridge

Its only been a few years that Kev and I have been boating and are thoroughly enjoying the experience and being part of the club.

We both talked about having a holiday on a Narrow Boat and so, this year (2018) we decided to take the plunge. We wanted to go somewhere where there were very few locks so we could just enjoy the boating experience. We opted to go to the Cambridge fens for a 4-night stay on a 47ft boat starting from March and Foxes Marina. There was a choice of routes we could take so we opted for a route to Ely which took us through 3 locks, 2 of them were Guillotine locks and manned and one which was manned part time. This also took us on a short tidal stretch of the River Ouse. So, after a brief run through of the handling of the boat we took ownership of our vessel. We headed left out of the Marina towards the town of March, then onto the first lock,  Marmont Priory lock where we were greeted by a very sprightly 82 year old part time lock keeper who was pre warned of our arrival so had started to fill the lock for us. After a few brief minutes and great a conversation with him we were in and out in no time heading towards our first night stop over. We headed towards the small beautiful villages of Upwell and Outwell navigating through what the locals call ‘The Pipe’ or ‘the gutter’ because it is a very narrow gulley of water and low bridges which passes through the villages.

We found our first overnight stop just on the edge of Outwell.

Our Boat was a 2013 build with all the mod cons and extremely warm and cosy and may I say, incredibly easy to handle, even for us novices.

After a great night’s sleep, we had a 7am start to make the tide. It was 3c outside so we wrapped up warm and with the calm water of the ‘pipe’ we

sunrise across the Fens.

headed towards Salters Lode and the first of our Guillotine locks for the tidal stretch. With the sun breaking and the mist rising over the water it was sheer magical and despite the cold, wouldn’t have missed it for the world.

After going through some more low bridges (even Kev had to bend down) and a small aqueduct we arrived at the lock to be greeted by more fellow narrow boaters and the lock keeper who was on the side of slightly eccentric and so was his dog who would never tire of having the ball thrown for him. Everyone seems so friendly and have a ‘laid back’ attitude in this environment, nothing matters… time, speed…life in general.

After explaining to the lock keeper it was our first time on this type of boat he assured us that everything would be fine.  He talked us through the procedure and before we knew it, it was our turn. Kev at the helm took us into the lock. We waited for the waters to level and then we were out. A full turn back against the tide we headed back up the river at 7 knots to the next guillotine lock of Denver Sluice. We arrived no problem and straight into the lock and out the other side into the non-tidal side of Ouse….and relax.

We chugged down the river at 4knots and taking in the wonderful peaceful surroundings. We headed for a lunch stop at Brandon creek and ‘The Ship Inn’ we looked at branching off onto the ‘Little River Ouse’ but decided to carry on for Ely. After a few miles downriver we came to a long straight which we both decided instead of busting to get to Ely, we’d turn round and head back at a more leisurely pace to our overnight stop at Littleport.

tidal river Great Ouse at Denver

The next day we took a slow pace back towards Denver sluice for an overnight stay ready to catch the tide back. We had another boat who came along side which had 2 gentlemen who was easily in their late 70’s early 80’s. Where we asked where they were heading, they shrugged their shoulders and said ‘wherever’.  We decide there and then if we turn left, right or go straight on……speaking to these people and others they have such a wealth of knowledge which we have took away with us.

We decided to have a few drinks in the Jenyns Arms before turning in for the night.

The next morning was a beautiful clear and warm day. We were greeted with the aroma of the ‘old boys’ breakfast of a full fry up…plus the added attraction of a seal entertaining us. We thought the seal was waiting with us to go through the lock but we were told he is happy to stay where he was but got upset if anyone was moored on ‘his pontoon’ which is where we were…..Eventually the tide was right and we were able to head

back out onto the tidal side. Kev again at the helm went with the tide towards Salters Lode Lock. The Lock keeper was keeping a close eye on our

Salters Lode lock

arrival and then with a tight left hand turn, and full throttle, Kev expertly maneuvered the boat back into the lock. The lock keeper still stood looking with his arms folded shouted ‘’I’ll give you 8 out of 10 as you’ve used a little burst of reverse to correct yourself’’ which we didn’t. We imagined he would stand there with score cards as people came back into the lock!!!!!!

We made our way back towards March town for our last night retracing our journey back through Marmont Priory lock and ‘The pipe’. Sitting at the front of the boat having lunch on a barmy hot Sept day traveling back was the perfect end to a perfect boating holiday. We had our last night at March town with fish and chips before an early start back to the Marina.

arrival back at the marina

It was a quiet journey back passing through the back of March both contemplating our short time on the boat. Both sad to be giving it back but both had an amazing time and experience.

We turned into the Marina and straight into the mooring……as we moored the guy said, “you’ve done this before haven’t you????”  No I replied.

“Well he did that perfectly he replied”

“I know” I said with a smile…. “but don’t tell him” lol

If you fancy a break on a narrow boat but not sure….go for it…..you will not be disappointed….if you don’t fancy doing many locks… go to the Fens, Some of it is quite open and exposed as its rivers you are on and not canals but it is very quiet and very few locks. The people are incredibly friendly and look after their environment. They don’t like people who are loud or speed. They want people who respect their lands and waterways and we are defiantly going back….in fact we have already booked for next year…same place and with a brand new boat…still being made…but for longer…

Check availability for spring: SPECIAL OFFERS.

Hey! Are you new here? Subscribe on the right to receive more secrets of the undiscovered Fenland waterways, by email. (We never share or sell email addresses, we’ll only be sending you our local, insider knowledge, two or three times a month.)

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1) Long Lost Rivers and Ancient Inns

From Denver to Cawdle Fen, south of Ely, the entire course of the River Great Ouse is man-made and does not follow the ancient natural drainage pattern.  But traces of the original rivers still remain as small streams, ditches or lodes and parish and county boundaries still follow their course. The river passes through Denver, Southery and Littleport on the approach to Ely.

At the junction with the new Bedford River you’ll find that Jenyn’s Arms offers moorings, accommodation in the Sluice Lodge, a restaurant and bar snacks. Local facilities also include a public slipway, toilet pump-out and the Denver Sailing Club. In the village of Denver. Denver is also home to the eighteenth century house called East Hall Manor, the ancient and attractive church of St Mary and the Tudor Denver Hall, a local shop and a pub called The Bell.

Further upstream, you’ll discover the restored Littleport and Downham Pumping Station, built in 1819. It contained what was probably the second steam engine to be used for fen drainage and it remained steam powered until they changed to diesel engines in 1935.

At Ten Mile Bank, there are Environment Agency moorings, but from then onwards to Southery there is an uneventful stretch, giving the passing boater an opportunity for some quiet inward reflection!

2) The Murdered Ghosts of Southery

At Southery, a village built on a fenland isle, you will find the general store, post office, butcher, antique shop and the Old White Bell Inn. Between Southery and Littleport, the lonely low-lying fenland is criss-crossed by straight roads, straight railways and straight drainage ditches. Flood banks stand high above the wide fen and the land makes the sky appear majestically vast.

The Ship Inn

There are moorings for customers at the 17^th century Ship Inn, where the Little Ouse joins the Great Ouse at Brandon Creek. Here you may find local folklore and legend served up with your bar snacks and drinks. There were brutal, grisly killings: soldiers partly buried in the river banks left to drown in the rising tide, and murderers left to hang by a noose as the tide fell. They say their ghosts may still be seen on murky, foggy nights…

3) The Hanged Men of Littleport

Littleport also lies on a fenland isle and has its own gruesome history of violence and death. Poverty, exploitation and starvation lead to the Littleport Riots of May 1816. Drunk and dissenting local men attacked houses and took weapons and a wagon-mounted gun to Ely, then broke into shops and houses. A subsequent battle with the armed forces resulted in one death and many wounded. Numerous arrests were made and ultimately five men were hanged and 19 deported.

However, the local folks are friendly now, so don’t be afraid to stop in Littleport for shopping, pubs and restaurants! There are moorings for customers at The Swan on the River.

The river then cuts through lower-lying, agricultural fenland in a dead straight line; known as the Adelaide Course. The river is wide, the flood banks are high and the scenery is mostly unvaried and unremarkable for 6km, unless you encounter a Cambridge University boat-race crew in training.

This cruise will then bring you to the ancient city of Ely, where there are many more stories and ghosts to discover!  Book your summer cruise now and discover the real England!

*Before entering the tidal river, advice should be sought from the lock keeper Salter’s Lode 01366 382292 or St Ives Pilotage Co. 01480 495745

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