19 May 1984. Journey start Bunbury Staircase locks cc John Revell

CC John Revell Northampton River Nene 23 May 1984.

I bought my first narrow boat in 1984 after many years of hiring boats. My trip began at Bunbury on the Shropshire Union on 19 May 1984 and I reached Northampton after 5 long, hard days passing through the centre of Birmingham including Gas Street basin (which was yet to be developed). Another long day on the Nene followed, starting at the Britannia Inn just below Northampton and finishing in time for drinks in the Chequered Skipper at Ashton where a live band was playing. As John Gagg had written in one of his canal guides there were torrents of water coming over the top gates at some of the locks. None of the locks had been electrified at the time and these included Ditchford radial arm lock which involved 148 turns of a hand wheel, once to lower the heavy bottom gate and once to open.  Years later I still find it surprising that none of the endless notices on Ditchford lock state that it is the only surviving radial arm lock on the Nene.

Lilford lock on the Nene on 24 May 1984. The manual wheel fitted on the guillotine is just visible

Two days later I reached Stanground lock where to my relief I found that my 48 foot boat would just fit into Stanground lock (which at 49 foot was the shortest lock I had encountered on my travels and which was the reason I had bought a 48 foot boat in the first place). This was my first meeting with Mr Rootham (I never knew his Christian name was Alan, let alone called him that for years) and then to Ashline lock where the resident lock keeper suddenly appeared and furiously wound paddle gear of a type which I had never seen before.

Bevill’s Leam pumping station near Pondersbridge on 26 May 1984 – cc John Revell

From there we headed for Pondersbridge. Although I had read that this was a dead end it still came as a shock to find Bevill’s Leam pumping station right across the river and no lock to go beyond so we turned round and headed for Turves where we had been told there was a pub. The Three Horseshoes did not disappoint. There was again live music in the saloon and a games area in the public bar with table football and darts.The friendly locals were amazed to learn that we were on a long boating trip from somewhere near Chester to somewhere near Ely and happened to be dropping into their pub in Turves on the way.

28 May 1984 Lodes End Lock opened in 1984. Very wet day! enclosure was built later.

Plaque Lodes End Lock 1984

There was heavy rain the next day and we set off late to find the pub at Chainbridge on the 20 Foot river which no longer existed so we continued to March and the boatyard of CT and P Fox Boatbuilders where I met Charlie Fox for the first time –  I recall he sold me some stern grease in a recycled treacle tin.

We finished up that evening at Benwick. Some of the houses in the main street and many of the gravestones had clearly been badly affected by subsistence but the Five Alls pub was memorable and full. There was a live and loud organ playing in the main bar and a deafening juke box for younger people at the rear.

The following day we went to Woodwalton Fen (Great Raveley Drain) in the rain and finished that evening in the George Inn at Ramsey Forty Foot where we signed the boater’s log book kept behind the bar and warmed up by the fire. I mention in passing that Joe Bugner, former world heavyweight boxing champion, lived in the big house opposite the George around that time.

The next day was memorable for all the wrong reasons. I damaged a finger badly when I caught it under the very low Ramsey Hollow bridge soon after leaving the George. A kind motorist took me to Manea train station where I eventually caught a train to Ely and walked into Ely military hospital and received welcome and prompt treatment. Meanwhile my friends (remember this was our first visit to the Middle Level)  boated along the Forty Foot river, the Sixteen Foot river and Well Creek  through Salters Lode and met up with me suitably bandaged at what was then called the Black Horse at Littleport at 9.30 pm. Remember there were no mobile phones then and red phone boxes were infrequent. Often they were already being used or there was a queue outside or they were simply not working. You also needed plenty of loose change to use them. You could not simply ring for an ambulance or a taxi from the boat let alone remain in contact with my friends but we all somehow managed to meet up at the Black Horse at Littleport late that evening.

After a brief spell at the Fish and Duck marina I was fortunate to move my boat to Fox’s marina where I was able to explore the Middle Level further over the next couple of years. I then returned in 1996 where I have been ever since both in my first boat and the second Olive Emily which Fox’s built for me in 2002. I will write more about this later.

John Revell
8 Oct 2023

The post Boating on the Middle Level in May 1984 Part 1 with John Revell appeared first on Fox Narrowboats.

Carol negotiating a low bridge

Its only been a few years that Kev and I have been boating and are thoroughly enjoying the experience and being part of the club.

We both talked about having a holiday on a Narrow Boat and so, this year (2018) we decided to take the plunge. We wanted to go somewhere where there were very few locks so we could just enjoy the boating experience. We opted to go to the Cambridge fens for a 4-night stay on a 47ft boat starting from March and Foxes Marina. There was a choice of routes we could take so we opted for a route to Ely which took us through 3 locks, 2 of them were Guillotine locks and manned and one which was manned part time. This also took us on a short tidal stretch of the River Ouse. So, after a brief run through of the handling of the boat we took ownership of our vessel. We headed left out of the Marina towards the town of March, then onto the first lock,  Marmont Priory lock where we were greeted by a very sprightly 82 year old part time lock keeper who was pre warned of our arrival so had started to fill the lock for us. After a few brief minutes and great a conversation with him we were in and out in no time heading towards our first night stop over. We headed towards the small beautiful villages of Upwell and Outwell navigating through what the locals call ‘The Pipe’ or ‘the gutter’ because it is a very narrow gulley of water and low bridges which passes through the villages.

We found our first overnight stop just on the edge of Outwell.

Our Boat was a 2013 build with all the mod cons and extremely warm and cosy and may I say, incredibly easy to handle, even for us novices.

After a great night’s sleep, we had a 7am start to make the tide. It was 3c outside so we wrapped up warm and with the calm water of the ‘pipe’ we

sunrise across the Fens.

headed towards Salters Lode and the first of our Guillotine locks for the tidal stretch. With the sun breaking and the mist rising over the water it was sheer magical and despite the cold, wouldn’t have missed it for the world.

After going through some more low bridges (even Kev had to bend down) and a small aqueduct we arrived at the lock to be greeted by more fellow narrow boaters and the lock keeper who was on the side of slightly eccentric and so was his dog who would never tire of having the ball thrown for him. Everyone seems so friendly and have a ‘laid back’ attitude in this environment, nothing matters… time, speed…life in general.

After explaining to the lock keeper it was our first time on this type of boat he assured us that everything would be fine.  He talked us through the procedure and before we knew it, it was our turn. Kev at the helm took us into the lock. We waited for the waters to level and then we were out. A full turn back against the tide we headed back up the river at 7 knots to the next guillotine lock of Denver Sluice. We arrived no problem and straight into the lock and out the other side into the non-tidal side of Ouse….and relax.

We chugged down the river at 4knots and taking in the wonderful peaceful surroundings. We headed for a lunch stop at Brandon creek and ‘The Ship Inn’ we looked at branching off onto the ‘Little River Ouse’ but decided to carry on for Ely. After a few miles downriver we came to a long straight which we both decided instead of busting to get to Ely, we’d turn round and head back at a more leisurely pace to our overnight stop at Littleport.

tidal river Great Ouse at Denver

The next day we took a slow pace back towards Denver sluice for an overnight stay ready to catch the tide back. We had another boat who came along side which had 2 gentlemen who was easily in their late 70’s early 80’s. Where we asked where they were heading, they shrugged their shoulders and said ‘wherever’.  We decide there and then if we turn left, right or go straight on……speaking to these people and others they have such a wealth of knowledge which we have took away with us.

We decided to have a few drinks in the Jenyns Arms before turning in for the night.

The next morning was a beautiful clear and warm day. We were greeted with the aroma of the ‘old boys’ breakfast of a full fry up…plus the added attraction of a seal entertaining us. We thought the seal was waiting with us to go through the lock but we were told he is happy to stay where he was but got upset if anyone was moored on ‘his pontoon’ which is where we were…..Eventually the tide was right and we were able to head

back out onto the tidal side. Kev again at the helm went with the tide towards Salters Lode Lock. The Lock keeper was keeping a close eye on our

Salters Lode lock

arrival and then with a tight left hand turn, and full throttle, Kev expertly maneuvered the boat back into the lock. The lock keeper still stood looking with his arms folded shouted ‘’I’ll give you 8 out of 10 as you’ve used a little burst of reverse to correct yourself’’ which we didn’t. We imagined he would stand there with score cards as people came back into the lock!!!!!!

We made our way back towards March town for our last night retracing our journey back through Marmont Priory lock and ‘The pipe’. Sitting at the front of the boat having lunch on a barmy hot Sept day traveling back was the perfect end to a perfect boating holiday. We had our last night at March town with fish and chips before an early start back to the Marina.

arrival back at the marina

It was a quiet journey back passing through the back of March both contemplating our short time on the boat. Both sad to be giving it back but both had an amazing time and experience.

We turned into the Marina and straight into the mooring……as we moored the guy said, “you’ve done this before haven’t you????”  No I replied.

“Well he did that perfectly he replied”

“I know” I said with a smile…. “but don’t tell him” lol

If you fancy a break on a narrow boat but not sure….go for it…..you will not be disappointed….if you don’t fancy doing many locks… go to the Fens, Some of it is quite open and exposed as its rivers you are on and not canals but it is very quiet and very few locks. The people are incredibly friendly and look after their environment. They don’t like people who are loud or speed. They want people who respect their lands and waterways and we are defiantly going back….in fact we have already booked for next year…same place and with a brand new boat…still being made…but for longer…

Check availability for spring: SPECIAL OFFERS.

Hey! Are you new here? Subscribe on the right to receive more secrets of the undiscovered Fenland waterways, by email. (We never share or sell email addresses, we’ll only be sending you our local, insider knowledge, two or three times a month.)

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The following morning after a breakfast cooked on board we arrived at the Salters Lode lock for the tide crossing to Denver.  We gained an insight into what to expect from Paul the lock keeper and very soon we had crossed the tidal waters and were on to the river Great Ouse.  We moored for the evening at the Environment Agency moorings in Littleport and headed off to find the memorial to William Harley, grandfather of the ‘hog’.  William Harley was born in Littleport in 1835.  In 1859 he immigrated to Oswego and went on to have children.  One of his children was William Sylvester Harley who went on to form the Harley-Davidson Motor Company with Arthur Davidson in 1903.

William Harley memorial, Littleport

The following morning after an early start we arrived in Ely, from here we took a 20-minute train journey onto Cambridge.

In Cambridge we visited Scudamore’s to take a punt tour along the College backs.

I was intrigued to find out that the well-known Mathematical bridge is officially known as the wooden bridge and that back in 1963 students hung an Austin 7 car under the Bridge of Sighs having used 4 punts to get it there.

As a lover of cheese we then visited the Cambridge Cheese Company for some delicacies and before returning to the train we visited the Eagle pub for refreshment.  The pub has an RAF bar that has the inscriptions by World War II airmen covering the ceiling and walls.  In 1953 it was in this pub that Francis Crick interrupted the patron’s lunchtime on 28th February to announce that he and James Watson had ‘discovered the secret of life’ and they had come up with their proposal for the structure of DNA.  Here you can sample the special ale Eagles DNA.

After a fun day and short train journey we were back to Ely and the moorings where we stayed for the evening.

The following day was an early start and we headed down to Denver and crossed on the lunch time tide to wind our way back to March.  We crossed the Middle Level Main Drain at Muilicourt aqueduct before passing Outwell and Upwell, here we would have liked to stop at The Five Bells for a meal as I have previously eaten here and the food is plentiful however our holiday ended the following morning so we continued on to March for the night and moored in the town centre.

Total cruising hours for this journey 18, miles 58, locks 6.  Note there is a Tide Crossing to take into account when planning this journey.  Please consult Fox Narrowboats or the lock keepers at Salters Lode or Denver for crossing times when planning your trip.

This blog was written by Emily our general manager based on her boating holiday in May 2019

The post 4-Night Break on the river Great Ouse. appeared first on Fox Narrowboats.

1) Long Lost Rivers and Ancient Inns

From Denver to Cawdle Fen, south of Ely, the entire course of the River Great Ouse is man-made and does not follow the ancient natural drainage pattern.  But traces of the original rivers still remain as small streams, ditches or lodes and parish and county boundaries still follow their course. The river passes through Denver, Southery and Littleport on the approach to Ely.

At the junction with the new Bedford River you’ll find that Jenyn’s Arms offers moorings, accommodation in the Sluice Lodge, a restaurant and bar snacks. Local facilities also include a public slipway, toilet pump-out and the Denver Sailing Club. In the village of Denver. Denver is also home to the eighteenth century house called East Hall Manor, the ancient and attractive church of St Mary and the Tudor Denver Hall, a local shop and a pub called The Bell.

Further upstream, you’ll discover the restored Littleport and Downham Pumping Station, built in 1819. It contained what was probably the second steam engine to be used for fen drainage and it remained steam powered until they changed to diesel engines in 1935.

At Ten Mile Bank, there are Environment Agency moorings, but from then onwards to Southery there is an uneventful stretch, giving the passing boater an opportunity for some quiet inward reflection!

2) The Murdered Ghosts of Southery

At Southery, a village built on a fenland isle, you will find the general store, post office, butcher, antique shop and the Old White Bell Inn. Between Southery and Littleport, the lonely low-lying fenland is criss-crossed by straight roads, straight railways and straight drainage ditches. Flood banks stand high above the wide fen and the land makes the sky appear majestically vast.

The Ship Inn

There are moorings for customers at the 17^th century Ship Inn, where the Little Ouse joins the Great Ouse at Brandon Creek. Here you may find local folklore and legend served up with your bar snacks and drinks. There were brutal, grisly killings: soldiers partly buried in the river banks left to drown in the rising tide, and murderers left to hang by a noose as the tide fell. They say their ghosts may still be seen on murky, foggy nights…

3) The Hanged Men of Littleport

Littleport also lies on a fenland isle and has its own gruesome history of violence and death. Poverty, exploitation and starvation lead to the Littleport Riots of May 1816. Drunk and dissenting local men attacked houses and took weapons and a wagon-mounted gun to Ely, then broke into shops and houses. A subsequent battle with the armed forces resulted in one death and many wounded. Numerous arrests were made and ultimately five men were hanged and 19 deported.

However, the local folks are friendly now, so don’t be afraid to stop in Littleport for shopping, pubs and restaurants! There are moorings for customers at The Swan on the River.

The river then cuts through lower-lying, agricultural fenland in a dead straight line; known as the Adelaide Course. The river is wide, the flood banks are high and the scenery is mostly unvaried and unremarkable for 6km, unless you encounter a Cambridge University boat-race crew in training.

This cruise will then bring you to the ancient city of Ely, where there are many more stories and ghosts to discover!  Book your summer cruise now and discover the real England!

*Before entering the tidal river, advice should be sought from the lock keeper Salter’s Lode 01366 382292 or St Ives Pilotage Co. 01480 495745

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