The Sussex Ouse is a 42 mile long river which joins the sea at Newhaven.

Sussex Ouse looking down stream from Mount Caburn

The Little Ouse flows from the Norfolk/Suffolk border for 37 miles to join the Great Ouse near Littleport in Cambridgeshire.

The Yorkshire Ouse flows for 52 miles until it meets the River Trent at Trentfalls, where they both join the Humber estuary. The tidal section of the Yorkshire Ouse is a truly mighty river, as anyone who has seen the photos of Naburn Lock (below York) completely submerged below floods, or who has tried to steer from the Ouse on a falling tide into the lock at Selby, will testify.

Lendel Bridge Yorkshire Ouse

The Great Ouse rises in Northamptonshire. Originally it found the sea below Wisbech, via the River Nene. It now joins the sea near King’s Lynn after a comparatively sedate 162 mile journey from its source.

So what makes this Ouse ‘Great’ – in comparison to its mighty ‘big brother’ in Yorkshire ? It was probably first called the ‘Great Ouse’ to differentiate it from the ‘Little Ouse’ which joins it below Ely. But round here, we believe that it is called ‘Great’ because it is simply the only one where you can hire a fox narrow boat!

Derelict Watermans arms

The bewildered raindrop 

raindrop

The southern and western upland areas of Northamptonshire are the source of a number of southern England’s major rivers. The Great Ouse rises in Wappenham and flows east to the Wash. The Upper Avon rises in Naseby and flows west into Warwickshire. The River Cherwell rises in Hellingdon and flows south to join the Thames in Oxford, and the River Nene rises on Arbury Hill and flows northeast, also to the Wash.

Any drop of rain, falling within this comparatively small area of land, could be forgiven for not having the faintest idea whether it was going to end up in the Bristol Channel, the Thames Estuary, or the Wash.

If our confused rain drop has come down the Great Ouse, just as it reaches Denver, only 14 miles from the sea, it might be diverted into the Great Ouse Cut-Off Channel via the Diversion Sluice and pumped off in the opposite direction To Essex

If you are interested in exploring the Fenland Waterways Foxs have day hire narrowboats and holiday boats available.

image credits Watermans Arms Chris Howes all others Shutterstock.

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river wissey hilgay

Is there anymore a relaxing and restorative holiday than on a narrowboat?

Is there any better way to immerse yourself in the natural world?

I’m that person with the lifestyle many of you envy. I’m semi-retired and live on a Fox narrowboat! So what does the person whose life can appear ‘one long holiday’ do for a holiday? I often stock up on provisions and cruise the tributaries of the River Great Ouse, the rivers Lark, Little Ouse and Wissey.

quiet waterways

The days of traffic jams, congestion charging, ‘held up by roadworks’ and road rage are but a distant memory to me ! I never go anywhere fast in my boat, and occasionally marvel at the small minority of hirers who appear to feel the need to go as fast as possible, seemingly in an attempt to achieve the maximum possible mileage. My mantra is “if I was in a hurry I shouldn’t have bought a boat”. My formula for stress free living – relax and drink in the narrowboat experience.

prickwillow engine museum

On the river Lark visit the brilliant Prickwillow Drainage Museum Open mainly Saturdays, Sundays & Mondays, April through September.

And explore upstream as far as Judes Ferry and reward yourself with good pub grub in the hostelry! It is a long standing boating tradition that you can’t turn around outside a pub without first sampling its wares. (Perhaps a less well known tradition, but one I strive to try and keep alive!)

The entrance to the Little Ouse is marked by The Ship at Brandon Creek PH. With both pub and EA visitor moorings the Ship also has a long tradition of feeding and watering the hungry boater.

little ouse narrowboat approach lock sluice gate

The river Little Ouse features the breathtaking lovely Hockwold Fen part of an RSPB nature reserve. One evening my wife and I moored there on the GOBA mooring and were entertained all evening by nightingale song. Priceless!

Little Ouse GOBA Mooring

Another star of the Little Ouse is the eye catching remains of the long abandoned Waterman’s Arms. How the ruins of this former pub defy gravity and remain standing defies belief!

derelict watermans arms

The last of these three tributaries is the River Wissey. The lower reaches feel so remote as you squeeze through its tight reeds that it often reminds me of the film classic, the ‘African Queen’. My wife plays Katherine Hepburn to my Humphrey Bogart !

Marvel at the alien landscape as you briefly pass next to the country’s largest beet factory at Wissington. Both the Wissey and the Little Ouse feature strange water management feature.

The Head of Navigation on the Wissey is a charming flint built Suffolk town called Brandon. 5 miles north east of Brandon is Grime’s Graves, the only Neolithic flint mine open to visitors in Britain. Both worth visiting !

grimes graves map

In this blog I’ve only scratched the surface of the many interesting features and quirks of these rivers. In my printed 260 page guide “The Great Ouse and its Tributaries’ published by Imray. I describe, for example, both how the river Lark demonstrates all the different historical stages in pumping the Fens dry, and how the same river was used for mass, total immersion baptism, right up until the 1970s, only stopping after complaints that the recently ‘dunked’ were too smelly! And many, many other strange and little known facts. The guide is available from Fox’s. Chris Howes.

View this Fox Route 1 & points of interest on the Fox Narrowboats Interactive Google Map

If you are interested in exploring the Fenland Waterways, Fox have day hire narrowboats and holiday boats available.

Hey! Are you new here? Subscribe on the right to receive more secrets of the undiscovered Fenland waterways, by email. (We never share or sell email addresses, we’ll only be sending you our local, insider knowledge, every two weeks)

Image credit: river wissey hilgay (top) – wiki martin pearman, grimes graves map – public domain (bottom), all inline photos – chris howes

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My friend, and fellow former Senior Proctor (though a year or two before I was Senior Proctor!), Gordon Johnson, asked me to write a few words about the bit of river — Sandall’s Cut — that is hosting the boat race this afternoon, as it also did in 1944. Here are those few words, which I hope you’ll find interesting.

I thought it’d be helpful to overlay a modern map with some reasonable approximations of old courses of some of the Fen rivers, which I’ve colour-coded for convenience. Red shows the course of the Ely Ouse from around 1110 to 1830.

Green shows an old course of the Little Ouse before it was diverted north. No one is entirely sure when that happened. In the Middle Ages, the old Ely Ouse and the old Little Ouse joined roughly where indicated, and then flowed off to the northwest towards Outwell as the Wellenhee (from where Welney gets its name) along what is now the mouth of Littleport Boathaven, and on to Wisbech.

The yellow course is the old course before the river was diverted in the early twelfth century to run through Ely and allow stone to be brought from Barnack Quarry in Northamptonshire, along the Nene to Wisbech, Wellenhee to Littleport, and on to Ely on the red course, to build the cathedral.

This red course via Prickwillow is the one we’re interested in today. Sandall’s Cut, the course used for the boat race, is the long, straight section you can see connecting the two open ends of the old red course.

Before drainage began in the seventeenth century, Wisbech was a sea port on The Wash. Cargo was unloaded there onto smaller boats, which took the Wellenhee across to Littleport, where it was reloaded onto yet smaller boats for the circuitous and difficult journey via Prickwillow to Ely, shown in red.

At some point in the Middle Ages — dating is very difficult, maybe in the fifteenth century, but could possibly have been a bit earlier — a cut was made to connect Lynn (later King’s Lynn) with Littleport, Wisbech’s importance faded, and the once-mighty Wellenhee became a backwater, before finally being bisected by Vermuyden’s Bedford Rivers in the seventeenth century.
Most cargo now came up river from Lynn directly to Littleport in large vessels, but there it met with a problem.

This old, natural, course between Littleport and Ely was too shallow and unreliable for navigation — often too dry in the summer and too boggy in the winter — which is why Sandall’s, or Sandy’s, Cut was dug between 1828 and 1830, offering almost straight navigation on a canalised new river more than 100 feet wide and, at the time, 20 feet deep.

It’s said that some 20,000 navvies dug the cut over two and a half years, all by hand, of course, in those days. The Cutter Inn in Ely took its name not from the boats called cutters, but from those men who cut their way through Middle Fen and Padnal Fen to shorten and straighten the river, and who presumably liked a pint or two at the end of a hard day’s work!

Sandall’s Cut opened in 1830, and there was now a quick, reliable, deep, straight channel, suitable for larger boats, between Littleport and Ely, and river trade flourished.
Well, it didn’t flourish for long. Within twenty years, the railway connecting Ely to the south with Cambridge and London was extended north to King’s Lynn, and from 1850 cargo could travel directly from the docks at Lynn to London on the same day.

Sandall’s Cut’s heyday was short, which is why we’re left today with an impressive four and a half mile long, deep, wide canal that took nearly three years and cost a fortune to cut, connecting two quiet Fenland towns in the middle of nowhere!

If you wish to cruise this route by narrowboat you can check out our holidays and short breaks we recommend a 4 night break to comfortably visit Ely.

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Spring time is not just about warmer days, daffodils and Easter eggs. For narrowboaters it means the start of the boating season, and on the Fenland waterways it’s time to untie our ropes and get back out there cruising under those stunning Fenland skyscapes.

A boating holiday around East Anglia offers peaceful cruises and pretty walks, cosy pubs and restaurants, and shopping in ancient villages and towns. You can even cruise all the way to Peterbrough or Cambridge for a bit of a city break, discovering art galleries, museums, history and architecture. Near Peterborough you can get all nostalgic and visit the steam trains of the Nene Valley Railway.

Our local waterways are the Middle Level, River Nene and River Great Ouse and are far less crowded than the Norfolk broads. If you head west from our hire base in March you will cross the Greenwich meridian line at Floods Ferry, and cruise on to Whittlesey, Stanground, Peterborough and the Nene valley. Alternatively, if you travel east to Upwell and Outwell, then cross the tide at Salters Lode you can head on towards Littleport, Ely and Cambridge. (See the full map of our suggested holiday routes.)

Research shows that spending time in nature reduces stress, lowers feelings of anxiety and depression, and gives us energy. There’s something about travelling by canal boat that allows you to be right up close to the natural world around you, yet never a moment away from a nice sit down and a cup of tea! Like the scenery? Stop and moor up. Boating is an unhurried style of holiday.

In the spring the waterways are less crowded than in the summer time, but the weather is often just perfect for boating. Enjoy blossoming trees and primroses as you pass through pretty villages. At this time of year swans, ducks and geese proudly swim along with rows of newborn young following behind. Our local waterways are home to otters, kingfishers, hares and foxes.

Try shopping for Easter chocolate in Peterborough, Ely, Cambridge or smaller picturesque market towns along the way. Then take a tea break in somewhere quaint like The Samovar Tea House; a cosy café in Ely, serving a variety of loose teas and coffees, brunch, lunch and home-made cakes.

Narrowboat hire prices are often cheaper in the spring time than they are in the summer. If you book online today you could save 10% on your Easter holiday! (You may also like How to Save Money on Your Narrowboat Holiday.)

For more ideas to add to this year’s holiday plans, sign up for digital updates from this blog. (We never share or sell email addresses – your details are safe with us.) Just look for ‘Follow Blog’ in the sidebar on the right and get insider knowledge about the Fenland Waterways.

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The following morning after a breakfast cooked on board we arrived at the Salters Lode lock for the tide crossing to Denver.  We gained an insight into what to expect from Paul the lock keeper and very soon we had crossed the tidal waters and were on to the river Great Ouse.  We moored for the evening at the Environment Agency moorings in Littleport and headed off to find the memorial to William Harley, grandfather of the ‘hog’.  William Harley was born in Littleport in 1835.  In 1859 he immigrated to Oswego and went on to have children.  One of his children was William Sylvester Harley who went on to form the Harley-Davidson Motor Company with Arthur Davidson in 1903.

William Harley memorial, Littleport

The following morning after an early start we arrived in Ely, from here we took a 20-minute train journey onto Cambridge.

In Cambridge we visited Scudamore’s to take a punt tour along the College backs.

I was intrigued to find out that the well-known Mathematical bridge is officially known as the wooden bridge and that back in 1963 students hung an Austin 7 car under the Bridge of Sighs having used 4 punts to get it there.

As a lover of cheese we then visited the Cambridge Cheese Company for some delicacies and before returning to the train we visited the Eagle pub for refreshment.  The pub has an RAF bar that has the inscriptions by World War II airmen covering the ceiling and walls.  In 1953 it was in this pub that Francis Crick interrupted the patron’s lunchtime on 28th February to announce that he and James Watson had ‘discovered the secret of life’ and they had come up with their proposal for the structure of DNA.  Here you can sample the special ale Eagles DNA.

After a fun day and short train journey we were back to Ely and the moorings where we stayed for the evening.

The following day was an early start and we headed down to Denver and crossed on the lunch time tide to wind our way back to March.  We crossed the Middle Level Main Drain at Muilicourt aqueduct before passing Outwell and Upwell, here we would have liked to stop at The Five Bells for a meal as I have previously eaten here and the food is plentiful however our holiday ended the following morning so we continued on to March for the night and moored in the town centre.

Total cruising hours for this journey 18, miles 58, locks 6.  Note there is a Tide Crossing to take into account when planning this journey.  Please consult Fox Narrowboats or the lock keepers at Salters Lode or Denver for crossing times when planning your trip.

This blog was written by Emily our general manager based on her boating holiday in May 2019

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Northampton –

Becket’s Well

Becket’s Park is named after Thomas Becket, the Archbishop of Canterbury notoriously murdered in Canterbury Cathedral. Henry II had summoned Becket to appear before a great council at Northampton Castle in October 1164, to answer allegations of contempt. Becket drank from a well on the edge of the park. Convicted on the charges, Becket stormed out of the trial and fled to the Continent. In 1170 Becket returned to England, and further upset the King causing him to speak the words “will no-one rid me of this turbulent priest”, which resulted in Becket’s murder on 29 December 1170. These days there are water points available and drinking unprocessed water is not recommended !

Fotheringhay – worth a visit

fotheringhay church

This was the site of Fortheringhay Castle which has been very significant in English History. Richard III was born there in 1452 Mary, Queen of Scots, was tried and beheaded in 1587. The castle was razed in 1627, and there is nothing left other than the motte on which it was built which is worth climbing for the excellent views of the river Nene.

Views of the village are dominated by a particularly fine Perpendicular style church, dating in parts to the 15th Century. At the time of writing, the Church is unfortunately masked by scaffolding.

A local farmer charges for mooring.

Lilford Hall

As you pass through Lilford Lock and under the picturesque bridge you are entering Lilford Estate which is crowned by a Grade I listed, 15th Century, stately home. Although not open to the Public, the views through the trees of the grand house remind one of days long gone ! Remember to ‘doff your cap’ or ‘tug your forelock’ if you pass anyone on the bank who might possibly be aristocracy !

Wansford in England

Wansford is beautiful village largely built of mellow Northamptonshire Stone. The old bridge which carried the Great North road (a.k.a. the A1) past the Haycock Inn dates from 1600 and is a scheduled ancient monument.

The Haycock Inn is named from the story of an unfortunate traveller who, wary of sleeping in any Inn because of plague, spent the night in a hayrick. The river rose in the night and the traveller woke to find himself floating down the Nene. He asked a traveller on the riverbank where he was, and upon hearing the reply “Wansford”, asked, “Wansford in England?”. The name stuck, though the local Inns are now, we hope, plague free !

The next bridge carrying the rerouted A1 was constructed in 1929. For those of us who appreciate such odd things as cast concrete, its structure is particularly fine, including the words cast into it “County of Soke of Peterborough”.

The final bridge, which accommodated a second carriage way for the A1 was built in 1975. There has been a river crossing in Wansford since Saxon times, and the three bridges neatly summarise a large part of the history of bridge building.

Wansford Station – worth a visit

Nene Valley Railway, Wansford

The river meanders round a great bend after Wansford, before you come to floating moorings from which you can access Wansford Station (actually in Sibson). This is the headquarters of the Nene Valley Railway. An absolute must to visit ! The home of Thomas the Tank Engine and a host of historic steam engines, you can ride to Peterborough enjoying a line that has, over the years,  been used for filming, amongst many others, Secret Army, a Queen rock video, Middlemarch, Goldeneye, and Murder on the Orient Express.

Peterborough – Flag Fen worth a visit

Flag fen is one of the most important surviving Bronze Age sites in England, and possibly in all Europe ! It is home to a unique ancient wooden monument, a kilometre long wooden causeway and platform, perfectly preserved in the wetland. This was built and used by the Prehistoric fen people 3,500 years ago as a place of worship and ritual. 60,000 upright timbers and 250,000 horizontal planks are buried under the ground along with many swords and personal items given as offerings to the watery fen. These are on display in a visitor centre and give an unique insight into Bronze Age life.

It is a short walk North of the river Nene from the spectacular new Shanks Millenium Foot Bridge East of Peterborough. There are no dedicated moorings but ‘improvised’ mooring shouldn’t be difficult.

Ramsey Rural Museum – worth a visit

Ramsey Dock moorings

This quintessentially English, independent museum, contains an eclectic mix of articles from bygone ages. It evokes glorious memories of a past of village fetes and strawberries and cream.

Open from April through to October, all day on Thursdays, and in the afternoon on Saturdays, Sundays and Bank Holidays. Nearest moorings are either on the 40ft navigation near The George P.H. at Ramsey Forty Foot (2 miles away, but down a country road without a footpath) or on Ramsey High Lode, (1.4 miles away, past a 15th century Gothic gatehouse to a former Abbey)

Holme post – point of interest

Holme Post stands on the lowest land point in Great Britain at 9 ft below mean sea level. In 1851 it was decided to drain Whittlesey Mere (a boggy lake), and a 12ft cast iron post was driven vertically into the peat until the top of it was buried with its top level with the ground. The post was probably a reject casting originally intended for the Great Exhibition. As the peat dried the ground shrank and the post gradually emerged. Today all 12ft of the post is exposed, and a six foot extension has been added to the bottom of it.

Fen folk say that a drained mere will sink the height of a man, during the life of a man. Judging from the evidence of the now exposed post, the ground has sunk 18ft in 166 years, which rather confirms this old rule of thumb.

Holme Fen is quite a walk from the nearest navigable watercourse, which itself is quite remote from the main link route, which is why we’ve only included it as a ‘point of interest’, but if, like me, you are an anorak for the quirky and unusual historic artifact, then it’s a ‘must’.

Prickwillow Engine museum – well worth a visit

Formerly known as the Prickwillow Drainage Engine Museum, this is 2 miles up the river Lark from the river Great Ouse, and there are hard moorings close by. Drainage and the reclamation of land from the sea is key to the history of the fens. The museum contains a major collection of large diesel pumping engines, all of which have been restored to working order. The museum is generally open Saturdays, Sundays, Mondays & Tuesdays, in the afternoon, from Easter until the end of September, but it is advised to check their website before planning a visit.

The mystery smell – point of interest

During the high summer of 2017 many people reported a strong smell of cannabis, over a wide area between Denver Sluice and Ely.  Eventually it was revealed that there is a legal cannabis farm (for medical use) at a ‘secret location’ that was probably responsible for the odour. If the lower part of the River Great Ouse appears to contain an unusually ‘high’ number of hippy boaters, it is not that the live aboard population of Cambridge has suddenly relocated, but the search for the fabled ‘Mary Jane’ cannabis farm.

Queen Adelaide – point of interest

The first Oxford v Cambridge boat race took place in 1829 at Henley. The next race was held in 1836 on the Thames in London. The tradition has continued ever since, but only once has the race moved from London.

In 1944 London was judged too dangerous because of the V1 flying bombs and the race was held on the Queen Adelaide Straight near Ely.

Cambridge University have recently built a new boat house North East of Ely and you may well come across them practicing on the waters between Ely and Littleport. Although traditionally known as the ‘light blues’ their oars are now more green, allegedly caused by a past university boatman, who suffering from colour blindness, mixed increasing amounts of green into the paint for the oars over the years.

As always, care should be taken to minimise wash when passing rowing boats, but as an ‘Oxford rowing man’ I do condone the odd “boo” if you pass a Cambridge boat !

Ely Cathedral – well worth a visit

narrowboat holiday ely

The Cathderal is known as the ‘ship of the Fens’ because of its dominant position in the landscape, visible from miles away.  Its origins date back to 672 and the present building was started in 1083. It is an outstanding building, both for its size and detail. The entrance, lady chapel and choir have been described as “exuberant Decorated Gothic” and its most notable feature is the central octagonal tower, with lantern above. If you only visit one cathedral a year, this is the one to visit !

Ely has good moorings, and overstaying boats are regularly moved on, so you have a good chance of finding a mooring in this vey city.

Streatham Old Engine – worth a visit

Stretham Old Engine

Stretham Old Engine is a steam-powered engine on the Old West River, about 6 miles up river from Ely. There are decent moorings. The engine was used to pump water from flood-affected areas of The Fens back into the river Great Ouse. It will be open to the public on 18 afternoons in 2018, so it is advisable to check their website for opening dates.

Huntingdon – Hinchingbrooke House – worth a visit

Is an historic house built around an 11th-century Benedictine nunnery. After the Reformation it was owned by Oliver Cromwell, and later the Earls of Sandwich. The house is part of a school, and is also a wedding and conference venue, but is open for tours on Sunday afternoons and some bank holidays.

Huntingdon has limited moorings.

St Ives worth a visit

Fithteenth Century Chapel

The bridge in St Ives, and the chapel on the bridge, have about as varied history as any bridge possibly could ! The bridge is generally Gothic with pointed arches, other than two mismatched rounded arches. Oliver Cromwell ordered the demolition of  part of the bridge and the installation of a draw bridge, to hold back Charles 1st’s troops. When they were later rebuilt, they didn’t match. The building on the bridge was a chapel up until the dissolution of the monasteries, and since then has been a private house, a doctors surgery and a pub, called Little Hell.

There are three different sets of good moorings in St Ives.

You may be interested in our blog post Old River Port St Ives

Health Warning – Huntingdon & St Neots

Huntingdon’s most famous son, Oliver Cromwell, was in part responsible for the death of the only English King to be executed, Charles I. St Neots’ most infamous son, John Bellingham, shot the only English Prime Minister to be murdered in Office, Spencer Percival. The two towns are less than 10 miles apart and it is said that although their residents are generally hard to upset, but if you do, the results can be severe ! I should know, because, dear reader, I married one !

St Neots –

St Neots originally comprised two settlements Eaton Socon and Eynesbury with a Priory between them.  The name changed to St Neots when locals raided St Neot on Bodmin Moor in Cornwall in 980 and relieved them of their relics of the Saint and brought his bones back, as a ‘tourist attraction’.  There is a mosaic set in the Market Square with a depiction of the world famous Alfred Jewel, made in honour of St Neot for King Alfred, and kept at the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford.

Many places have ‘tall stories’ to tell, but St Neots has the genuine case of the James Toller, “The Eynesbury Giant”. Born in 1798, this unfortunate young man was 5ft 5in tall at the age of 10 and by the time of his death, aged 21, he stood over 8 feet tall.  He is commemorated by a plaque in the town and his story is told in the St Neots Museum.

In 1935 St Neots hit the front page of every news paper, with the birth of the Town’s own ‘fab four’ Ann, Ernest, Paul and Michael Miles, the first surviving quads, ever. They instantly became famous world wide and for years were adopted by Cow & Gate to advertise their products.

If you are wanting to visit these locations by hire boat check out our cruising times guide to help plan your trip.

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As I was going to St Ives I met a man with seven wives,

Each wife had seven sacks, Each sack had seven cats,

Each cat had seven kits: kits, cats, sacks and wives,

How many were going to St Ives?

The town moorings were vibrant and there was a busy amount of river traffic, although not crowded.  There are also moorings available at The Waites and for patrons The Dolphin hotel.

Our first stop was the Fifteenth Century Chapel bridge (one of only four in the country) which as well as still being a place of worship also hosts regular arts events. We descended the steps and walked out onto the balcony to view the moorings from the middle of the river.  When we left the chapel on looking upstream to the right we spotted the river terrace café and popped in for a spot of lunch.  I had the traditional Welsh Rerebit with apple and ale chutney whilst mum had a mini baked Camembert with rosemary.  Both meals were well presented and delicious.

Following lunch, we browsed the busy Monday market, stopping to listen to the entertainment.  There were stalls a plenty selling clothing, plants and food.  Only a couple of minutes’ walk from the moorings it is unsurprising that so many boaters were in attendance.  The market is held every Monday and Friday. Although the Friday market is smaller. There is also a farmer’s market held on the sheep market on the first and third Saturdays of the month.

When exploring the town, you will come across a statue of Oliver Cromwell as well as the Norris Museum.  The Norris museum tells the story of Huntingdonshire from 160 million years ago to the present day.

For further details of all that St Ives offers the visiting boater and all visitors it is worth checking the local website the Old River Port St Ives.

For those interested in numbers and the riddle in the rhyme there was only one man going to St Ives the other man and his 7 wives 49 sacks 343 cats 2401 kits were  leaving presumably having all visited the market!

To visit St Ives on your Fox Narrowboats holiday you will need to spend a week on board.  Journey time there and back approx. 32 cruising hours.

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We have asked our staff for their top 3 picks for a short break.

narrowboat holiday ely

Tracey our finance director would head off to Ferry Meadows Country Park on the river Nene with it’s visitor moorings in Overton lake.  It’s perfect for families you may wish to walk, cycle, play in the children’s playground, ride a train or visit the on site café and visitors centre.

Emily our general manager likes to head to Ely on the river Great Ouse with its riverside mooring and dining scene, she says it is also worth taking time to visit the cathedral which has it origins in AD672. The present building dates back to 1083 with its most famous feature being the stunning octagonal tower and lantern.

Paula our managing director likes the peace and tranquillity of exploring the Middle Level Navigations and mooring in open countryside to relax, unwind and read a book and to watch for wildlife such as the kingfishers of the old river Nene and goes on to say that if you are extremely lucky you may spot an otter playing before dusk. She also recommends an evening meal at the Golden Lion, Stonea. Although its a scramble up the river bank to reach  and you do have to watch the road the portion sizes are worth it. Just make sure you are hungry.

Check the availability for a last minute break.

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Progress on the Old Bedford river

Non tidal access to the historic Old Bedford River was lost in 2006 when the E.A. closed Welches Dam Lock, thus stopping access to a waterway that had been navigated for over 350 years. Since the closure various attempts have been made to access the Old Bedford from its outfall into the tidal Great Ouse. In 2009 an enterprising couple, Lois and Roy Parker, succeeded in getting onto the river and through to Welches Dam in their shallow drafted cruiser, but no narrowboat is known to have managed it.

On 4th April 2017 veteran of several previous tries, John Revell, lead another attempt in his 41ft narrowboat ‘Olive Emily’. He was joined by Chris Howes in his 45ft narrowboat ‘Lily May’ and Jeff Walters in his 50ft narrowboat ‘ever after’. The boats marshaled at Salter’s Lode lock on the Well Creek.

Currently access to the Old Bedford river can only be gained at low water on a ‘neap tide’ (which is the highest low tide, occurring only fortnightly). However because of silt build up at the mouth of the river to the Great Ouse, there is only a few inches of water and the passage can be described as between ‘very difficult’ and ‘damn near impossible’ ! However after much writhing about in the mud, and over an hour of trying, all three boats scraped through.

The E.A. had kindly raised the water level in the river sufficient for comfortable passage to be made, and previous problems of cot weed and ‘bottoming out’ were avoided, The E.A. had also lifted the guillotine gate at Welney, which is generally an obstacle to navigation.

Guillotine gate Welney

In the morning the three returned to Salter’s Lode for low tide. Again it was very difficult to get through the sluice gates onto the Great Ouse, but after two hours of trying the happy trio and their mud splattered boats finally made it !

An emotional John Revell observed “I was one of the last boaters to use Welches Dam lock from Horseway Channel before EA suddenly piled across the lock entrance in 2006. I never thought it would take another 11 years to reach it from Salters Lode. I’d like to give a big ‘thank you’ to the E.A. for their support this time, without which the trip would have failed. I’d also like to pay tribute to the late, great, inspirational Charlie Fox, it can be no coincidence that 2 out of 3 of the boats that made the difficult passage were Fox boats !”

Welches Dam lock

Chris Howes added “after the great difficulties getting onto the Old Bedford through the silted up estuary entrance, the journey itself was lovely. The huge frustration was that when we eventually made it to Welches Dam Lock we were only one closed lock and approximately 2 miles of de-watered channel away from the navigable network.”

Jeff Walters also added “I’d like to join in the thanks to the E.A. for their fantastic co-operation. As a member of the Project Hereward restoration team, can I make a heartfelt plea that the E.A. continue this invigorating, fresh spirit of working together by now facilitating the entry of the IWA’S highly qualified engineers into Welches Dam Lock to assess the true extent of necessary restoration?”

Chris Howes.

The post Old Bedford river conquered! appeared first on Fox Narrowboats.

sunset on the Middle Level Navigation

Before reading this article further it is worth thinking back to 1984 when John Revell first visited the Middle Level Navigations.  In those days entry by boat to the system was restricted to boats of 49 feet in length because of the short locks at Stanground, Ashline and Marmont Priory. Fortunately during the 1990’s thanks to campaigning the locks were lengthened to take full length narrowboats. Before that in the 1970’s our first holiday hire narrowboats transited the Old Bedford river to access the Great Ouse river system at Denver, the reason being Well Creek was not navigable.  Thanks to the East Anglian Waterways Association, the Inland Waterways Association (Peterborough Branch) and the Well Creek Trust along with their campaigning members the waterways have been opened up for navigation, recreation and fishing to all. Their campaigning would have been fruitless without the willingness of the Middle Level Commissioners, the fourth largest and perhaps least well know navigation authority in the country.

Although I try and visit the main canal system in spring I usually leave my boat on the Middle Level for the summer and winter months. Not everyone is a fan of the Fens but I am.

On my first visit to the Middle Level in June 1984 I moored near a bridge and saw a narrow road leading towards what looked like a pub. I was right as I had arrived at the Three Horseshoes pub in Turves which was heaving with people on a Saturday night. My long journey had started at Bunbury near Chester and I was heading for the Fish and Duck near Ely. Both the pub locals and we were amazed that my journey had led me to Turves.

Sunrise on the Middle Level Navigation

We returned to the Middle Level in August that year and visited some of the remoter parts. As we struggled along one somewhat weedy stretch a farmer came out to say hallo. He said he only ever saw weed boats there and added that he wished there were a few more boats passing as he was looking for a wife.

Away from the “Link Route” the Middle Level is little used, even in the height of summer. On a day’s journey from Holme to Floods Ferry this summer I met one moving narrow boat, passed 2 friendly fishermen when I went up to Ramsey basin for lunch and saw 5 kingfishers. If you want a good sunset or sunrise , lots of wildlife and peace and quiet this is the place to be.

Fox Narrowboats at March, Bill Fen Marina at Ramsey and Peterborough Boating Centre (just the other side of Stanground lock) provide most boating services. Whittlesey, Ramsey and March have a good range of shops and pubs, Upwell and Outwell provide a smaller choice of shops but convenient short term moorings plus 2 butchers, 2 fish and chip shops , the Globe PH, the Crown PH and the Crown Lodge Hotel and an amazing display of daffodils each year.

Sunset on the Middle Level Navigation

Away from the bright lights there are several pubs that have managed to survive, the Golden Lion at Stonea, the George at Ramsey Forty Foot, the Five Alls at Benwick, the Lion at Ramsey St Marys, the Admiral Wells at Holme and the Three Horseshoes at Turves. The shop at Three Holes next to the public landing stage (paid for by the Peterborough Branch of the Inland Waterways Association and built by the Middle Level Commissioners) has recently been renovated with a café and the Village shop at Ramsey St Marys is just before the Lion PH.

Now, if only we can restore Horseways Channel, Welches Dam lock and the Old Bedford to full navigation.

This is a guest blog by John Revell waterways campaigner and mooring customer here at Fox Narrowboats.

The post The Middle Level Navigations – one boater’s view appeared first on Fox Narrowboats.