The weather has been cold and yet after a short but bracing cruise this afternoon as I write, the most beautiful bands of sunlight are pouring themselves in through my windows, dancing tantalising reflections across my ceiling—a sight unseen when blocked in by other boats. I am in awe. I am content. I am lost in the simple pleasures of boating, of movement, and of changing seasons.

There are also sounds that cannot be expressed through pictures: the haunting lone call of a moorhen, the delightful tumbling song of hedgerow birds, the nasally honking of geese, the gentle slow wingbeats that belie a swan’s size. And then there is my thudding heart; bursting with happiness for the springtime that I know will now unfold at double speed before me.

I am here. I am within it. I am glad.

Fox Blog: Why an April Narrowboat Holiday is the Perfect Spring Getaway

Skies seem endless and filled with promise and I ponder the joy of keeping moving, along these watery roads, never returning to where I started. But alas, this year personal commitments mean we can’t venture too far and that’s okay because after many spells afloat throughout these past 16 years, and having travelled much of the network, I know that whatever stretch we find ourselves on, there will still be magic:

Delightful dawn choruses to wake me in the morning, ducklings darting around after mum in a cacophony of continual yet endearing quacking, grasses and wildflowers billowing along the towpath and finally—a feeling of warmth penetrating the windows. As the season progresses I know I will feel myself steadily thawing, my mind drifting to the promise of local cruises in dappled sunlight, working locks in the still silence of lighter evenings.

Fox Blog: Fearful of Locks? How to work one even if you’ve never done it

Winter has felt long this year, but getting back to my narrowboat and clearing out the debris of this coldest season before untying the ropes and flinging the doors open to spring, has felt as magical as it always does. Because wherever I wander, there is nothing quite like the sights and sounds of England’s waterways in springtime.

Alice Elgie is a nature-loving writer who shares words about her wandering lifestyle through hold-in-the-hand letters and recorded reflections. aliceelgie.com

The post First Cruise of the Year appeared first on Fox Narrowboats.

spring narrowboat on the waterways

Having now lived on narrowboats for many years I can concur that carrying coal and bags of laundry down a muddy towpath can certainly lose some of its ‘being joyfully connected to the elements’ charm after several months. Certainly there have been many winters where I have pondered if there is space to fit a washing machine on my boat. However, being present to the first precious gifts of spring does indeed more than make up for any of those hardships and failed daydreams.

first spring lock – alice elgie

Just yesterday morning I woke to dry windows inside, blue sky outside and felt the first  faint but euphoric realisation that somewhere in the not too far distance, spring is brewing. It made me reminisce about early spring 2011—one of my first on a narrowboat—when I lounged on the roof writing whilst chatting to passing boaters, my daughter peddling up and down the towpath on her bike talking to the ducks and geese. In that moment I simply couldn’t imagine a better way to live in England because for me, it was everything at its best: nature, friendliness and freedom.

If you would like to be one of the first to experience spring on the waterways, book your holiday with Fox Narrowboats

In the first throws of spring, winter quickly becomes a distant memory. My dreams of an on-board washing machine fade into the background as hand-washed clothes blow in the breeze and there is abundant space on the doorstep where we can roam and find adventures along secret paths, in wide open fields and amongst the trees. I think that’s it for me, that on a narrowboat we can live right in the heart of an unfurling spring. Each morning the air tastes fresher and I feel more at peace as I lay still listening to a visiting chaffinch or watch moorhens as they scurry in and out of their nest. The world comes alive all around me and somehow, the quiet cocoon that winter can be, makes me even more aware of each minuscule change.

Want to know why an April narrowboat holiday is the perfect spring getaway on our Fox blog?

And when I do have to do a laundrette run, I know it will no longer be plagued by a cold, muddy walk to sit looking sorrowfully out through steamed-up windows onto a dreary street. Instead us ‘washers’ will chat to each other with bright smiles as we watch our clothes go round and I will be reminded of the valuable people connection that would be lost if I were to relent to having a washing machine on my boat.

2026 Spring Canal Boat Holiday Offers

Alice Elgie is a nature-loving writer who shares words about her wandering lifestyle through hold-in-the-hand letters and recorded reflections. aliceelgie.com

The post Looking Toward Spring appeared first on Fox Narrowboats.

1. Planning a Narrowboat Holiday

If you’re thinking about your next trip, these posts are full of tips and ideas to help you plan with confidence, whether it’s your first holiday or your fiftieth.

collage spring 2025 – april narrowboat holiday is the perfect spring get away

• Don’t Book a Narrowboat Holiday – Before Trying this One-Minute Hack
  Smart narrowboaters subscribe to this blog before booking; find out why and get insider tips to make your holiday stress-free.
• First-Time Narrowboat Holiday? Here’s What the Internet Wants You to Know
  From managing locks to keeping dogs safe on board, discover the advice seasoned boaters wish they had before their first cruise.
• Buying a Slice of Heaven – My Experience of Buying a Narrowboat
  If you’re planning to go boat shopping but are a novice, it is always a good idea to enlist an “in-the-know” friend to accompany you.
• Why an April Narrowboat Holiday is the Perfect Spring Getaway
  Spot wildlife, enjoy cosy waterside pubs, and cruise through peaceful Fenland landscapes in the best season for a trip.

2. Family Life and Shared Adventures

Narrowboating is full of moments big and small that bring families closer together; from learning to steer to tending a rooftop garden, there is plenty for everyone to enjoy.

milla & daughter narrowboat alice elgie

• Boating Adventures with Four-Legged Friends
  With endless towpaths for walks, relaxing cruising time, and cosy evenings on deck, boating is perfect for pets as well as people.
• Narrowboat Roof Gardening (with or without children!)
  Gardening from the boat teaches patience and wonder, perfect for little hands and curious minds alike.
• Why Your Kids Will Love a Narrowboat Summer Holiday
  From spotting ducks to steering the boat, discover how a narrowboat holiday offers adventure, relaxation, and family bonding without leaving the UK.
• A Writer’s Experience of a Family Narrowboat Adventure
  In an increasingly busy world, an escape to life on the cut gives families the chance to slow down and reconnect.

3. Romance, Rest and Reconnection

Sometimes a canal boat holiday is just about slowing down, spending time together, or finding a little magic in everyday moments.

• Narrowboating Through Winter
  There is a quiet romance to basic meals cooked on the fire, giving you permission to hunker down and switch off from the world.
• The Lovers Guide To The Fen Waterways
  Scenic views, cosy pub lunches, and strolling hand in hand along cobbled streets make the Fenland waterways a perfect romantic getaway.

4. Living a Slower, Greener Life

Life on the cut encourages a gentler rhythm and a closer connection to the world around you; mindfulness, seasonal awareness, and simple eco-friendly choices can make every trip feel special.

greener living on a narrowboat

• Mindfulness on the Waterways
  Mindfulness is a way of being within the community, both human and animal, and it helps keep canals peaceful for everyone.
• A Simpler Greener Freer Lifestyle On Board A Narrowboat
  Use your move afloat or narrowboat holiday to slow down, reconnect with nature, and consider the impact of technology and your environmental footprint.
• Autumnal Foraging on the Towpath
  Enjoy seasonal treats while treading lightly, and discover the beauty and bounty of the hedgerows.

5. Places, Nature and Inspiration

From wildlife to seasonal scenery, waterways maps to historic destinations, there is always something to inspire you on the canals.

• Spring On The Cut
  Nature through a narrowboat window draws you in like nothing else, offering an immersive, ever-changing view of the world outside.
• Autumn On The Water – Diary of Living On A Narrowboat
  Reeds sway and leaves twirl across the water, a reminder of the beauty of seasonal change.
• Exploring Cambridgeshire’s Wildlife: Spotting Flora and Fauna with Fox Narrowboats
  Swans, kingfishers, and more, there is always something new to spot around every river bend.
• The Seven Wonders of the Fenland Waterways
  From medieval bridges to breath-taking scenery, take a canal journey through hidden Fenland wonders.
• A Canal-Themed Christmas, Dreaming of Your 2026 Waterways Escape
  While our boats rest for winter, imagine frosty towpaths, festive days out, and the timeless beauty of Ely Cathedral.
• Puss in Boats: Can Cats Live Afloat On A Narrowboat?
  From towpath adventures to roof-top sunbathing, discover how boat cats enjoy life on the cut.

We hope these highlights inspire your own adventures on the waterways this year. There is always something new to discover.

Love canal boating? Make 2026 your year on the waterways! For inspiring tips, seasonal ideas, and surprising insights for your next Fenland adventure, enter your email in the ‘Follow Blog’ box on the right-hand side, and we’ll send new articles straight to your inbox.

Peggy Melmoth is a writer who spent thirteen years living on canal boats with her family. She writes about narrowboat holidays, life on the waterways, and finding adventure in everyday moments at www.narrowboatwife.com

The post Fox Narrowboats: Highlights from Our Blog in 2025 appeared first on Fox Narrowboats.

Maybe you imagine yourself cruising past wildflower meadows, pulling up beside waterside pubs, or exploring hidden corners of the Fens. But then the questions creep in…

What if I’ve never handled a boat before? What do I need to pack? What’s actually fun to do on a canal boat holiday?

You’re not alone. And you’re exactly who this blog is written for. So let us share, why the most savvy boaters subscribe to this blog before booking a holiday.

Discover the Fun of Canal Boating: One Post at a Time

At Fox Narrowboats, we don’t just hire boats; we live and breathe boating life. This blog is where we share the little gems that don’t always make it into the brochures. Think:

• Quirky canal slang (Want to know your windlass from your weed hatch?)
• Local recommendations (Like where to moor up for the best fish and chips!)
• Packing tips, pub guides and peaceful routes
• Real stories from people who’ve tried boating for the first time, and loved it

Whether you’re planning your very first trip or returning for another go, our blog is like having a friendly boater in your pocket, giving you tips and ideas with each new post.

Who Writes It?

Peggy Melmoth is a freelance writer specialising in narrowboat life. She lived on canal boats for 13 years, has written for Towpath Talk and Waterways World, and blogged for many canal-based businesses. She has been writing for Fox Narrowboats since 2014. Her personal blog, The Real Life of a Narrowboat Wife, describes three years of living aboard a narrowboat with her young family.

Alice Elgie is a wandering writer with an appreciation for time spent in nature. She writes with a focus on nature, yoga, slow living and travel. She also writes the monthly column “Characters of the Cut” for Towpath Talk. She travels between a narrowboat on the canals of England, a cottage in rural France, and a tiny camper on the open road.

alice elgie family narrowboater

Follow her musings at Slow into the Seasons.

There are also guest post articles on this blog, from local historians, authors, waterways experts, narrowboat bloggers, Fox boat owners and holiday customers.

Chris Howes

Chris Howes was a mooring customer here at Fox Narrowboats and has written a few articles for our blog. He was a waterways campaigner who held several roles in the Inland Waterways Association. He wrote about literature, Fenland history and the Fenland Waterways and is author of the Imray guides, The River Great Ouse and its Tributaries, and Fenland Waterways. His list of the “Seven Most Wonderful Places to Boat” is an updated alternative to Robert Aickman’s “Seven Wonders of the Waterways”, written in 1955. (Robert Aickman was a co-founder of the Inland Waterways Association.)

John Revell is a boater, waterways campaigner and IWA member who writes about his personal boating journey, which began in 1984. He is a mooring customer at Fox Boat’s marina and has shared, on our blog, excerpts of articles he wrote for Hereward, the magazine of the Peterborough Branch of the Inland Waterways Association. He also shares some first-hand experiences of visiting derelict canals, such as the Kennet and Avon, before its restoration.

John Revell on his boat Olive Emily

There are also guest posts introducing the Fox Boats family and team: Paula and Tracey are the daughters of renowned boat builder Charlie Fox. It was in 1973 that Charlie built his first canal boat, and in 1980 he built our marina, to the west of March.

Paula & Gerald

What You’ll Get When You Subscribe

When you sign up to follow the blog by email, you’ll receive:

• New blog posts delivered straight to your inbox (no need to remember to check the site)
• Seasonal highlights and planning ideas
• Inspiring photos and stories to fuel your holiday daydreams
• No spam. No pressure. Just good old-fashioned boating inspiration.

Ready to Cruise Into Holiday Mode?

If you’re even thinking about a canal boat holiday, subscribing to this blog is the best place to start. It’s free, it’s friendly, and it’s written with you in mind.

Subscribe to the blog using the sign-up box in the sidebar; then pop the kettle on – we’ll send your first post soon.

Alice Elgie is a nature-loving writer who shares words about her wandering lifestyle through hold-in-the-hand letters and recorded reflections. aliceelgie.com

The post Don’t Book a Narrowboat Holiday – Before Trying this One-Minute Hack appeared first on Fox Narrowboats.

melody narrowboat alice elgie

This season is my favourite, and for me, on the canals of England is the only place to be when it begins to take hold. Blackthorn blossom floating like confetti, hawthorn leaves, shiny and green, bursting their buds in quick succession, and goslings, ducklings, baby moorhens (which I like to affectionally call ‘pom poms’!)…there is a sense of life in the air and in my opinion, there really is nowhere like it anywhere else on earth.

goslings – alice elgie

If you’re looking to experience wildlife and nature at its best whilst on your narrowboat holiday on the fens, try Wicken Fen National Nature Reserve which can be accessed from the canal:

Fox Blog – Wicken Fen

wicken fen visitors centre – credit: fox narrowboats

I moved onto my very first narrowboat in the spring of 2010. See more about buying my first narrowboat on this blog. Those weeks spent watching the wintry world come to life through numerous windows, have stayed with me. I thought I’d hit the jackpot to be sharing my daily life with such an abundance of wildlife and as the season unfurled in all her glory, I also found myself spending far more time outside than usual.

Wicken Mill

There’s something about narrowboats being nestled so within nature that you can’t help but be drawn outside. In a house, you never know what the weather is doing and it’s easy to get complacent and comfortable, staying glued to a favourite TV show, or endlessly scrolling on a screen. But nature through a narrowboat window sucks you in—and ultimately out!—like no YouTube show ever can.

Do you long to make time for more walking?

Being on the canals also encourages us to exercise more, with a plethora of opportunities to don your walking boots and go out exploring on relatively flat and easy ground. Even BBC are extolling the benefits of walking (article on BBC website) and if you’re on a narrowboat holiday, you can take the opportunity to let inspiration lead you.

holme fen credit wiki wehh

Whether the sun is shining, or there’s a shower on the horizon, stepping outside never fails to lift the mood, as well as give us a boost of vitamin D. With a number of picturesque places to visit on the Fens—including pubs, restaurants, or perhaps even a gentle stroll to the local shop—there’s no excuse to not indulge.

Looking for Inspiration? Then check out this interactive Fens Waterways Map for Narrowboaters: 

So if you’re looking for a boost and need to be reminded of the simple joys in life, or you’re perhaps just craving respite from the busyness, spring on the waterways might be just the ticket—even with those noisy geese!

What is the cut?

Alice Elgie is a nature-loving writer who shares words about her wandering lifestyle through hold-in-the-hand letters and recorded reflections. aliceelgie.com

Credits: Narrowboat – Alice Elgie, Goslings, Wicken Fen Visitors Centre – Fox Wicken Mill, Holme Fen – wiki wehh

The post Spring On The Cut appeared first on Fox Narrowboats.

alice narrowboat purchase family photo canal cruising

The perfect blend of abundant wildlife, calming water, and space to take a deep breath away from the hubbub of the world up there, is what draws so many of us to the canals, myself included.

As a child I grew up in a city that has the Grand Union Canal running through its heart so in the summer holidays my mum would often pack a picnic and we’d stroll together along the towpath exploring the different species of trees and grasses, flowers and butterflies.

By the time I was in my late teens and working in offices throughout that same city, I would head off during my lunch hour to seek out the canal. Perhaps with a book in hand, or on a winter’s day, for a brisk stroll. For me, the canals have always provided solace from a busy world and throughout all the years spent travelling in other countries, it’s always the waterways of England I most long for.

If you’re looking to experience a pretty town in the Fenlands where a waterway runs straight through, you might check out March:

www.visitcambridgeshirefens.org/fenland-towns/march-14

After one such trip back in 2010 where, along with my little family, we had tired from 18 months travelling in a campervan and decided the time was right to put roots down, the waterways were presented as the perfect location.

alice narrowboat at home with nature

My husband and I had long enjoyed trips out on a friend’s narrowboat and when he suggested that perhaps our budget could stretch to a canal boat to live on, our eyes were opened to a new way of living; a way that would enable us to have our own permanent home yet still with a sense of freedom, and allow our young daughter a natural environment within which to grow. We were sold!

Planning on going narrowboat shopping? 

If you’re planning to go narrowboat shopping but are a novice, it’s always a good idea to enlist an “in-the-know” friend to accompany you. When we first went looking for our perfect floating home such a friend was invaluable, advising us about key things to look out for such as checking the inspection hatch for water in the hull, whether pumps were all working properly and of course, offering all important advice on water tanks and loo systems. It was also reassuring to have an ally with a little more expertise when negotiating offers and surveys and generally. Having the benefit of someone else’s knowledge gave us confidence in a world that, at that time, was completely new to us.

I’m pleased to say we successfully bought and moved onto our first narrowboat in spring 2010 and having boater friends by our side along the way—as well as buying from a reputable marina—made the process fun and fuss-free. We’ve never looked back!

Being able to appreciate the jewel that is England’s waterways from the back deck whilst meandering on a spring day, or sitting out on the front deck listening to the buzz of insects on a summer’s evening, to every window being graced with the oranges, reds and yellows of an autumnal season, and laying in bed with the sound of ice cracking in winter…we never take our first tentative step into this watery world, for granted.

If you’re in the position to build your dream from scratch, then be sure to check out Fox Narrowboat Building Services:

www.foxboats.co.uk/marina/boat-building/

Or if you’ve found your dream boat and would like to find an equally dreamy mooring, then maybe pop your name on the waiting list for Fox Narrowboats modern boating marina situated in the heart of the Middle Level Navigation in March.

www.foxboats.co.uk/marina/moorings

Alice Elgie is a nature-loving writer who shares words about her wandering lifestyle through hold-in-the-hand letters and recorded reflections. aliceelgie.com

The post Buying a Slice of Heaven – My Experience Of Buying A Narrowboat appeared first on Fox Narrowboats.

Sitting on the roof of a narrowboat soaking up the sunset after a day of locks, camaraderie and laughter, felt like the perfect end to day one of a family holiday.

I was 16 years old and there were 7 of us on board. To be fair, when the idea of a family narrowboat holiday was floated I thought it sounded like it might be a rather torturous experience, but instead it ended up becoming one of the more memorable holidays of my life. 

Despite growing up alongside the canal and always having a fascination with the sense of calm it brought — along with endless opportunities for adventures in nature such as ‘going exploring’ with friends in the summer holidays, climbing trees and picnicking — I didn’t actually step aboard a narrowboat until that holiday but very quickly, I was hooked.

Leisurely mornings sharing breakfast whilst watching the ducks and swans gliding around outside the window, hiding out in our ‘bunk bedrooms’ playing cards and chatting, taking long walks along the towpath, the buzz of dragonflies and bees filling my ears; it felt like we had discovered a world within a world. Up above was the rush of traffic and busyness, but down on the water we had found a magical space stopped in time where we were able to relax and absorb the moment.

There was also a strong sense of teamwork as we all helped with the new and rather exciting experience of working our boat through locks and evenings were enjoyed all together, either eating at a pub we managed to moor up next to, or setting up the bbq and eating dinner in the middle of nature. I hadn’t experienced anything quite like it and despite being a teenager who might ordinarily have been seeking out bright lights and parties, I found the experience to be incredibly adventurous.

If you’ve got younger children read our blog 4 Things Every Parent Should Know About Narrowboat Holidays and alleviate your worries that they will be bored!

Even 30+ years ago this holiday provided me with an opportunity to step away from the routine and have my eyes opened to something different and in our increasingly always-on world, an escape to something different is perhaps more needed now than ever. Not to mention that on a narrowboat travelling at 4mph along the beautiful Fenland Waterways, parents won’t be able to do anything but slow down and hit the reset button.

All these years later I still reminisce fondly about the joy experienced on this family holiday that not only exposed a different way of life to me, but also nurtured a sense of camaraderie, encouraged quality time together, and strengthened bonds—the memories are firmly imprinted on my mind’s eyes. Plus these days I still enjoy sitting on the roof of my own narrowboat admiring the sunset after a long day of locks!

Are you ready to make some family memories? Then let Fox narrowboats take the strain and curate your perfect adventure: www.foxboats.co.uk/holidays

Not convinced by my memories alone, then enjoy this post: Why Narrowboating is the Perfect Family Holiday.

Alice Elgie is a nature-loving writer who shares words about her wandering lifestyle through hold-in-the-hand letters and recorded reflections. aliceelgie.com

The post A Writers Experience Of A Family Narrowboat Adventure appeared first on Fox Narrowboats.

Which annual religious festival held in Ely leant its name to a word meaning “showy but cheap and of poor quality”?

Who were the Littleport rioters and what did they do that was so bad that five of them were executed?

I subscribe to the theory “that the past is a foreign country”. I’m not that old, but when I was young I lived through times that we now look back on as being of great change. However to me at the time change was invisible – its was ‘same old – same old’. The Prime Minister was always either Ted Heath or Harold Wilson, and I was too young to realise that the 1960s were ‘swinging’. We all know that Fenland used to be very different. A marshy and difficult land with no proper roads and only a few tracks that were impassible in Winter. Often the only way to get around was on stilts or by water. In winter there were dehabiliting freeze-ups. The Fen Ague was a malaria like illness which did for local boy ‘made good’ – Oliver Cromwell. After the great freezes, came great floods. The struggle for existence was the battle against the elements.

In our modern sanitised society with proper roads and successful water management, the past can appear to have disappeared. But scratch the surface – and its echoes are often still to be heard !

One of the best means of rediscovering that past is through literature. There are three books which I particularly treasure and which vividly evoke a Fenland past.

These are Hereward the Wake: Last of the English. This was published in 1866  by the Rev Charles Kingsley (also known for writing the Water Babies). It tells of events in 1071/2 when the Anglo Saxon leader Hereward led resistance against the conquering Normans (1066 and all that) from his base in Ely. It popularised Hereward and elevated him into a Robin Hood type hero. There are varying accounts of Hereward’s life and struggles. I recently read one by an eminent historian denigrating Charles Kingsley’s as being hugely inaccurate. Somewhat in disgust I put aside this anaesthetised version and returned to Kingsley’s rip-roaring, dramatic and exciting version of this gripping tale!

Aldreth GOBA Mooring Fens Sunset

It is difficult to imagine both life, and the pre-drainage landscape nearly 1,000 years ago. But Kingsley brilliantly paints a picture. Hereward refused to swear allegiance to the invading King William (a.k.a. ‘William the bastard!). He brilliantly defeated William’s troops at the river crossing on the Old West River near Aldreth as they marched on Ely from Cambridge. There is a remote GOBA mooring near this spot and a farm bridge now crosses the river. We’ve enjoyed mooring here several times, and I can report that we haven’t (yet) been troubled by the ghosts of the long slain Normans.

Aldreth Bridge River Ouse

Hereward was later betrayed to William by the monks of Ely. There is a strong suggestion that Hereward’s successes relied heavily on the support and advice of his first wife Torfrida. However he was persuaded to divorce her and instead marry Alftruda, who in modern terms could be described as ‘more celebrity’. Under her influence he wimped out and lost his fire, eventually submitting and swearing allegiance to William the Conqueror.

Hereward

Walking down Ely High Street I recently noticed a pupil of King’s School Ely wearing a sweat shirt emblazoned “Torfrida”. On inquiry I learned that one of the school’s houses is called Torfrida. I was delighted to learn that the ‘real brains behind Hereward’ had been so commemorated. (one of the other school houses is called Etheldreda – another name with major resonance in Ely !)

Another historical novel which vividly conjures up ‘lost Fenland’ is Cheap Jack Zita, published in 1893 by Sabine Baring-Gould. The period after major wars is often one of great social change. Returning soldiers often cause unemployment, grain shortages and inflation. This was evidenced more recently by the great changes which swept Britain after WWll (leading to the surprise election of a reforming Labour Government and the establishment of the National Health Service). This novel is a wholly fictional account based on actual events. It starts outside the great Galilee porch on Ely Cathedral. The death in 879 of Ethelreda, founder of Ely Cathedral was commemorated annually by holding a fair, St Etheldreda’s Fair, which became commonly known as St Audrey’s Fair. Cheap and flashy goods were often sold at the fair, leading to ‘St Audrey’ becoming abbreviated to the word ‘tawdry’. A ‘cheap jack’ was a seller of cheap inferior goods, typically a hawker at a fair or market. Zita was the eponymous daughter of a cheap jack. This is another fast moving and exciting tale which details the landscape and hardships of the area (particularly along the River Lark). It culminates in May 1816 with an account of the actual the march from Littleport to Ely of angry and frustrated rioters. The riot was halted by soldiers and during the following assizes in Ely 23 men and one women were condemned, and five hanged. Plaques commemorate their terrible fate. In Ely, near the Cathedral, and a stone plaque was installed on the west side of St Mary’s Church which ends “May their awful Fate be a warning to others” The other convicts were transported to Australia.

Cannon at the Gallillee Porch Ely Cathedral

The expression ‘the queens of crime’ refers not to female villains, but to the four authors Agatha Christie, Dorothy Sayers, Margery Allingham and Ngaio Marsh. Dorothy L Sayers (June 1893 – December 1957) grew up in first in Bluntisham, and later in Christchurch where her father was rector. The family seat of her aristocratic fictional detective, Lord Peter Wimsey’s was Denver. Wimsey helped defend his brother, the 16th Duke of Denver, when he became the chief murder suspect in Sayers’ novel ‘Clouds of Witnesses’ in which he was tried by his peers, before the full House of Lords. Her choice of the name ‘Denver’ for the fictional Dukedom reveals her Fenland roots.

Bluntisham church near st ives fens waterways

Her 1934 mystery the award winning ‘The Nine Tailors’ is set in the fictional fenland village of Fenchurch St. Paul. The end of the book includes a vivid description of a massive flood, and it is hard to avoid the conclusion that Sayers must herself have witnessed similar flooding while growing up in the fens. It is rumoured that several characters in the book share names with graves in Bluntisham churchyard.

Wisbech Upwell Tramway historic photo

Deserving an honourable mention in our Fenland Literature ‘hall of fame’ is the Rev. Wilbert Awdry (June 1911 – March 1997) creator of Thomas the Tank Engine. The Rev Awdry served as Minister in the South Cambridgeshire villages of Elsworth with Knapwell, Bourn and in Emneth (Norfolk). He was a fan of Wisbech and Upwell tramway, and in his book Toby the Tram Engine, Toby, and the coach Henrietta are based on stock used on the line.

the steam tram wisbech old photo

The last book which, through its powerful and sometimes almost poetic prose, draws us back into a more recent past is Tom’s Midnight Garden (first published 1958) by Philippa Pearce. This story for children slips between a present in the 1950s and a late Victorian past in the 1880s – 1890s. It memorably includes a description of skating from Ely to Great Shelford (near Cambridge) along the frozen rivers Ouse and Cam during the ‘mini ice age’ which permitted the great frost fairs held on the river Thames, and described by Dickens.

Tom’s Midnight Garden book cover

The late Mike Rowse, several times Mayor of Ely, and dedicated local historian, once related to me that Philippa Pearce (the author) once visited Ely Cathedral and read the skating passage from the pulpit. He described it as a moving and unforgettable experience.

I have been a devotee of skating since reading the book as a child. Outdoor skating is an unique experience and it is of great regret to me that warmer winters appear to have largely relegated it to the past!

Cheap Jack Zita, published in 1893 by Sabine Baring-Gould, Tom’s Midnight Garden, written by Philips Pearce in 1958

Blog by C Howes

The post Time Travelling Through Literature Of The Fens appeared first on Fox Narrowboats.

Ferry Meadows sitting on narrowboat

Question – Where along the river Nene can visiting family combine a boat trip with a steam train outing ?

Question – Which future King of England was born in 1452 at Fotheringhay Castle on the River Nene ? – Clue – His body was identified 527 years after his death under a Leicester ca-park.

Question – Which Queen was executed in 1587 at Fotheringhay Castle on the River Nene ? One summer morning in 2023 I was looking for a mooring in the lovely riverside City of Ely. There were no available spaces, but there was a Fox hire boat moored. Generally hire boats don’t stop in any one place for too long, and often leave by midmorning.

I ‘hovered’ close to the boat and gently inquired if they might be moving on before too long, and if they would mind me mooring alongside until they left – when I could take over the spot they had vacated.

They were lovely, friendly, people, and readily agreed. I asked them if they were enjoying their narrowboat holiday. They replied that they were “loving it”, at which point they recognised my boat from the cover of the river guide ‘Great Ouse and its tributaries’. “How did you wangle getting your Fox boat on the cover ?” they asked. “By writing the guide !” I replied.

They made me a cup of coffee and I regaled them with a few of those anecdotes which didn’t quite make it into the guide.  Just before they set off, they explained “this has been our first narrowboat holiday and we’ve definitely got the bug”. They asked “We’ve got the whole Country to choose from, where would you recommend we go next year?”

I didn’t even need to think before I replied “Go West ! When you leave Fox’s marina turn right toward the River Nene not left towards the River Great Ouse (like you did this year). The River Nene is one of the loveliest navigable rivers in all England !”

During my life I have lived in two towns (Bedford and St Neots), and one City (Ely), all on the Great Ouse, but I must sing the praises of the River Nene. On a cautionary note I must also warn you that “Nene’ is pronounced “Neen” downstream of Thrapston, and “Nen” upstream of Thrapston. As the farthest you are likely to get on a week’s hire is Oundle (leaving yourself sufficient time to get back to the hire base), or at the very most Thrapston, we can settle on calling the river ‘Neen’.

Leaving Fox’s marina you will travel first through the Middle Level towards Peterborough. On the Middle Level you could spend your first night afloat on the new visitor moorings in Ramsey.

Alternatively many boaters choose to use the new rural moorings on Whittlesey Dyke at either Burnthouse Bridge or Angle Corner (https://middlelevel.gov.uk/navigation/maps/). The popular third option is go through Ashline Lock and moor at the back of the Manor Leisure Centre in Whittlesey. The rural moorings will require you to cook on board, whereas both Ramsey and Whittlesey moorings offer a range of ‘eat out’ opportunities, restaurant or takeaway.

You need to book yourself in advance through Stanground Lock with the lock keeper, Tina,  on 07824 600470 (this is the only non ‘do-it-yourself’ lock you will encounter on your trip).

Stanground is approximately 6 hours from Ramsey,  3 hours from the Burnthouse rural mooring, 21/2 from the Angle Corner rural mooring, and 1 1/4 from the Manor Leisure Centre in Whittlesey. Lock Warning !  In the mid 17th Century a campaign was launched to make the River Nene navigable between Peterborough and Northampton. It was anticipated that 33 locks would be required to bypass the water mills. By the 18th Century, when the work was undertaken, 38 locks were required ! But don’t worry there are only 11 locks between Peterborough and Oundle. With a willing and helpful crew these shouldn’t be too much bother. And remember – locking is a vital part of the ‘narrowboat experience’!

Stanground Lock

Shortly after you have passed through Stanground lock you will find yourself in the historic cathedral city of Peterborough. There are ample moorings on Peterborough Embankment but these can get a bit noisy in the evening. There is a floating Chinese restaurant called the Grain Barge moored on the embankment. My wife and I often dine there on their ‘eat as much as you can for a fixed price’ menu when returning to home waters after visiting the canals.

Peterborough Town Bridge 1909

Often we choose to travel out of Peterborough for another 1 1/4  hours and moor instead at the lovely Ferry Meadows Park. These peaceful floating moorings are on a lake and you quite often get a good sunset, followed by a spectacular sunrise the next mooring. There is (car) parking at Ferry Meadows Park, and before now we’ve rendezvoused there with family. They’ve joined us on board for a pleasant river trip upstream as far as Wansford Station, where they’ve disembarked and caught a steam train on the Nene Valley Railway back to their car. A perfect family outing !

wansford station

Go West young man !

As you travel upstream you will pass through Water Newton Lock. The adjoining former mill has been converted into desirable apartments (though I don’t know if I’d make it right through the night with the ever present sound of running water without regular nocturnal visits to the ‘smallest room’). The scene just above the lock is as idyllic a river view as you could ever find. Have your cameras at the ready !

Wansford Station b

water newton

Water Newton b

The old bridge at Wansford carries the old Great North road (a.k.a. the A1) past the Haycock Inn dates from 1600 and is a scheduled ancient monument. The Haycock Inn is named from the story of an unfortunate traveller who, wary of sleeping in any Inn because of plague, spent the night in a hayrick. The river rose in the night and the traveller woke to find himself floating down the Nene. Disorientated, he asked someone on the riverbank where he was, and upon hearing the reply “Wansford”, asked, “Wansford in England?”. The name stuck, and Wansford is officially described as “in England”. The local Inns are now on the whole believed to be plague free !

Above Wansford you come to floating moorings from which you can access Wansford Station

(actually in Sibson). This is the headquarters of the Nene Valley Railway. An absolute must to visit ! The home of Thomas the Tank Engine and a host of historic steam engines, you can ride to as far as Peterborough enjoying a line that has, over the years,  been used for filming, amongst many others, Secret Army, a Queen rock video, Middlemarch, Goldeneye, and Murder on the Orient Express.

Next to Elton Lock stands a glorious abandoned mill (grade ll listed). There are moorings immediately above the lock. I’ve twice walked into the village and dined outside The Crown ph under a great spreading Horse Chestnut tree, where I’ve enjoyed as good a pub meal as ever I happen chanced upon!

Soon the English Perpendicular style octagonal tower of the great St Mary’s church of Fotheringhay appears on the horizon. St Mary’s has strong connections to the Yorkist cause in the Wars of the Roses.  The Dukes of York had a family mausoleum in the church.  Richard III was born at Fotheringhay Castle (demolished 1630) and Mary Queen of Scotts was executed there in 1587. There are private visitor moorings here. They are not expensive (£5/overnight) and the farmer collects your money shortly after you arrive. The village pub, The Falcon, is well spoken of for its food. Although (for some  inexplicable reason) I’ve not checked out the pub, I regularly moor at Fotheringhay.

Ashton Lock is near the village of Ashton which is a privately owned village, long associated with the Rothschild family. This private ownership is evidenced by all the front doors of the houses being painted the same colour. Ashton was the home every October of that important sporting competition – the National Conker Championship – until they moved 4 miles to Southwick near Oundle. There is a large colony of Red Kite around here, and I’ve witnessed 5 or 6 in one go, apparently following me up the river.

Oundle is a market town with a population of around 6,000, constructed in soft Northamptonshire Stone. Sadly Oundle appears to ‘turn its back’ on the river. But it’s worth crossing the adjoining flood meadow and visiting. There are often slightly fierce looking cattle grazing in the meadow, and I choose to cross it at the other end from them.

You will soon need to think about turning your bows downstream and returning the boat. If you’ve got sufficient time, the bridge at Lilford is as pretty a bridge as you’ll find anywhere.

It was said of the famous dancers Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers  “Fred was great, but don’t forget that Ginger did everything he did, backwards …. and in high heels !” Now you’ve got to Fotheringey, or Oundle or wherever the time left on your boat hire requires you to turn back and retrace your steps – just remember that the “Nene is just as beautiful backwards” (particularly if you’re wearing high heels ?). And like we do, you can always treat yourself to a Chinese meal on the way home, on the Grain Barge in Peterborough. Don’t forget to book yourself back through Stanground Lock.

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Approaching Denver lock where several cruisers are waiting – cc John Revell

This was my first time entering Salters Lode lock from the tidal Ouse and I was grateful to receive good advice from the Denver lock keeper about how to do this on an in-coming tide.

A fine converted mill at Nordelph. This has been extended but remains very distinct. John Revell

The familiar view as you approach the centre of Nordelph. The Chequers pub on the right closed in 2005.

The journey along Well Creek was uneventful though I recall being intrigued by a simple swing bridge across the river to a small cottage near Nordelph. I learnt later that this belonged to Gladys Dack and her name lives on with the Gladys Dack mooring constructed by the Well Creek Trust on the opposite side of the river. The cottage is now derelict having been badly damaged by a gas explosion which fortunately did not injure Miss Dack.

Glady Dack’s cottage and simple swing bridge. The house was badly damaged by a gas explosion and is now derelict.

After Well Creek and Marmont Priory lock we headed down Pophams Eau and moored near the junction of the Sixteen Foot and Forty Foot rivers. The following day we attempted to reach Horseways lock but gave up when we discovered there was nowhere to turn at the lock. We had to reverse to the junction with the Forty Foot which was something I have done many times since. On one occasion in 2010 this was part of a campaign cruise undertaken by the local branch of the Inland Waterways Association (IWA) which was broadcast on BBC Look East. Alastair Chambers, then Chairman of the Peterborough Borough Branch of the IWA, spoke to the camera while I just had to do the reversing.

I failed to boat the full length of the Forty Foot when I visited the Middle Level in April 1984 {see part 1} and it was a relief to get under the very low Ramsey Hollow bridge without mishap or injuring myself this time. Note that this bridge has since been raised by the Royal Engineers partly with funds raised by the local IWA at events held at Bill Fen marina [courtesy of John and Lynne Shotbolt].

Ramsey basin. Gang plank for access to town but nowhere to turn a 48′ boat round.

That evening was spent at the George Inn at Ramsey Forty Foot where we again added our name to the boater’s log book kept behind the bar before continuing the next day to Ramsey town. My notes record that this was easy boating with a good mooring at the end but nowhere to turn a 48‘ boat like mine.

We explored the town, ate fish and chips and visited the Jolly Sailor, a pub which has changed very little since then and which I last visited in September 2023.

My notes from 1984 state “Jolly Sailor. 6/10. Choice of rooms. Landlord ex RAF. Lots of brasses and locals. Beer by (Watney) Manns.

The moorings at Ramsey deteriorated over the years but have now been completely rebuilt to a high standard. There are also recently built houses on both sides. A turning point has also been provided and I have seen a 60’ narrow-boat turn there.

Plenty of help and onlookers at Lodes End lock

There was no turning point in 1984 so the following morning we therefore had to reverse all the way which took 90 mins. We then went through Lodes End lock and headed for Yaxley. Unfortunately, and not for the only time, we could not get under Exhibition Bridge which was too low to get under so we proceeded to Monk’s Lode where we moored overnight at the end of navigation.

At the end of Monk’s Lode

Our view that this was a very quiet spot was confirmed by a conversation the next day with a local man. He said that the only boats he saw these days were weed boats but this was a shame as he was looking for a wife (presumably to drift past and into his arms). This conversation took place in August when some waterways elsewhere would have been very busy. I reversed a short way and turned near an old pumping station. Monks Lode remains entirely unspoilt but the turning point is overgrown so reversing is needed for most boats.

After another quiet day we paid our second visit to C & T Fox boat yard. My notes say

“Helpful and business like. Diesel £1.20 a gallon. Mooring £6.62 per week”

We also visited the Horse and Jockey pub which was a short distance from the boatyard but has since been demolished before spending the evening in the Red Hart at Three Holes (an Elgoods pub which is also now closed).

Approaching Outwell before the church. A familiar scene still today.

We made our way to Salters Lode the next day, stopping for fish and chips at J R Stott Outwell (still there) and a drink at the Red Lion at Outwell (a splendid looking building on the busy main road, still there but no longer a pub – the prominent Bullards brewery sign  remains) and the Chequers at Nordelph (another closed pub).

Just before Outwell basin and the former junction with the Wisbech canal.

We had chosen to return via the tidal Hundred Foot (New Bedford). We went through Salters Lode at low water and waited outside for the big spring tide to arrive. We set off with the tide and reached the Riverside Inn at Earith by lunchtime. I have used this tidal route many times since then all without difficulty.

[photos]

All Photos Copyright John Revell

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