helmsman fox narrowboats holiday march – ely | angus culverwell
Glide past cottage gardens and village pubs as the river winds through the heart of Upwell and Outwell. Take a free mooring beside a riverside pub, explore Denver Windmill against the huge Fenland sky. Then comes the moment everyone remembers. The towers of Ely Cathedral appear on the horizon, rising out of the flat landscape just as they have for nearly a thousand years. That’s the magic of a March to Ely cruise. It’s 29 miles of uncrowded pretty villages, quiet waterways and big skies, with just three locks to work. You’ll spend your days soaking up the scenery. Here’s what to look out for along the way.
The Route at a Glance
- Distance: 29 miles each way
- Locks: 3 – Marmont Priory, Salter’s Lode and Denver
- Cruising time: approx. 18 hours return
- Best for: a 4-day short break (around 4.5 hours cruising a day) or a relaxed week (around 2.5 hours a day)
- Waterways: the Middle Level, Well Creek and the River Great Ouse
March: Your Starting Point
Turn left out of our marina and within minutes you’re cruising through the heart of March. Like all the old Fenland settlements, the town was built on what was once an island in the marshes, so as you pass under the town bridge the High Street shops sit level with the top of the bridge. There are free visitor moorings on both sides if you’d like to stop for supplies.
St Wendreda’s Church and its Angel Roof
angel roof st wendreda’s church – david lliff
Before you leave town, make time for the 20-minute walk to St Wendreda’s Church. Its double hammerbeam roof is carved with around 120 wooden angels, wings outstretched above the nave. Poet Laureate Sir John Betjeman thought it worth cycling forty miles in a headwind to see – and you’ll understand why the moment you look up. Watch a youtube presentation of the St Wendredas Church
Upwell and Outwell: The River Through the Village
outwell riverbank – richard humphrey
Six miles from March you’ll reach Marmont Priory Lock, your first lock of the trip. Above it lies a lovely stretch. The twin villages of Upwell and Outwell line both banks of Well Creek, so you glide right past cottages, gardens, shops & pubs. Several spots have visitor moorings, and in spring the banks are bright with daffodils.
Outwell Basin and the Real “Toby the Tram”
At Outwell Basin the river widens and turns sharply right. This was once the junction of the Old River Nene, Well Creek and the Wisbech Canal, which closed in 1926. The Wisbech and Upwell Tramway once ran through here too, and it inspired the Rev. Wilbert Awdry, who lived locally, to write Toby the Tram Engine for his Thomas the Tank Engine series. The Well Creek Trust provides visitor moorings here – a great place to tie up and stretch your legs.
Nordelph and Salter’s Lode: Big Fenland Skies
Two miles on, Well Creek crosses the Middle Level Main Drain, whose waters are pumped all the way out to sea – a reminder of how hard-won this landscape is. From here you cruise through wide open countryside and the village of Nordelph, under the huge skies the Fens are famous for, before arriving at Salter’s Lode Lock, the gateway to the Great Ouse.
The Tidal Crossing
Between Salter’s Lode and Denver Sluice you cross a short stretch of tidal river – the one moment on the route that feels like a real adventure. It’s all about timing: the lock keeper at Denver (01366 382340) will confirm the best tide times for your outward and return trips, and we’ll help you plan your days around them before you set off.
Denver: Windmill, Sluice and a Riverside Pub
Once you’re through Denver Lock, you’re on the Ely section of the Great Ouse. Moor up near the Jenyns Arms for a well-earned drink overlooking the sluices, then take a stroll into the village to Denver Windmill.
denver windmill cc tony bennett
Optional Detour: Downham Market
Got time to spare? Head through the lock into the Relief Channel to visit the market town of Downham Market, where visitor moorings are provided.
Along the Great Ouse to Ely
From Denver the river opens out into a broad, peaceful waterway. Less than a mile on you’ll pass the junction with the River Wissey, the first of three navigable tributaries along this stretch – followed by the Little Ouse (Brandon River) and the River Lark. Each is a tempting side trip if you’re on a week-long holiday.
You’ll also cruise past the village of Littleport before the highlight of the whole journey: the first glimpse of Ely Cathedral on the horizon, standing high above the Fens just as it has for nearly a thousand years. It’s no wonder it’s known as the “Ship of the Fens”.
Arriving in Ely
Ely has a lively waterfront with riverside pubs and cafés – the Cutter Inn is a favourite mooring spot – and the city centre is a short (if steep!) walk up the hill.
Ely Cathedral
ely cathedral – deposit photos
The cathedral is the star of the show, and it’s even more impressive up close than from the river. Don’t miss the Stained Glass Museum housed inside.
Oliver Cromwell’s House
oliver cromwells house – deposit photos
Step back into the 17th century at the family home of the Lord Protector, refurbished to show how it may have looked when Cromwell lived there.
Ely Museum and the Old Gaol
historic helmet – cc ely museum
Discover the story of the Fens, from the draining of the marshes to life in the city, in this museum housed in Ely’s former gaol.
Antiques and Independent Shops
Browse the antiques centre close to the river, then wander the narrow streets of the city centre for independent shops, tearooms and medieval gateways.
Planning Your March to Ely Break
4-Day Short Break
Cruise around 4.5 hours a day for an active break with time to explore Upwell, Denver and Ely along the way.
One Week
Slow down to around 2.5 hours a day, linger longer in Ely, and add detours to Downham Market or along the Wissey, Little Ouse or Lark.
New to Narrowboating?
With only three locks, this is an easy route. No licence or experience is needed – every holiday begins with a full training and handover at our March marina, and the Fox team is just a phone call away throughout your trip. One recent guest described our handover as “comprehensive but easily understood”.
Book Your March to Ely Short Break
Fox Narrowboat holidays restart in April for the 2027 season. Villages on the water, big Fenland skies, a windmill, a tidal adventure and a cathedral city – all in one easy short break. Check availability and book online, or call us on 01354 652770 to chat about the best boat and dates for you.
Related posts
- Fox Route 1: March to Ely route guide
- A Short and Sweet River Escape: Pope’s Corner to St Ives
- You Don’t Need to Know What You’re Doing. That’s the Adventure!
Photo credits: Helmsman Angus Culverwell, Outwell riverbank – Richard Humphrey CC 1.0, Angel Roof St Wendredas Church – David Lliff, Wiki CC, Denver windmill cc Tony Bennett, Historic helmet – cc Ely Museum
