Ferry Meadows sitting on narrowboat

Ferry Meadows sitting on narrowboat

Question – Where along the river Nene can visiting family combine a boat trip with a steam train outing ?

Question – Which future King of England was born in 1452 at Fotheringhay Castle on the River Nene ? – Clue – His body was identified 527 years after his death under a Leicester ca-park.

Question – Which Queen was executed in 1587 at Fotheringhay Castle on the River Nene ? One summer morning in 2023 I was looking for a mooring in the lovely riverside City of Ely. There were no available spaces, but there was a Fox hire boat moored. Generally hire boats don’t stop in any one place for too long, and often leave by midmorning.

I ‘hovered’ close to the boat and gently inquired if they might be moving on before too long, and if they would mind me mooring alongside until they left – when I could take over the spot they had vacated.

They were lovely, friendly, people, and readily agreed. I asked them if they were enjoying their narrowboat holiday. They replied that they were “loving it”, at which point they recognised my boat from the cover of the river guide ‘Great Ouse and its tributaries’. “How did you wangle getting your Fox boat on the cover ?” they asked. “By writing the guide !” I replied.

They made me a cup of coffee and I regaled them with a few of those anecdotes which didn’t quite make it into the guide.  Just before they set off, they explained “this has been our first narrowboat holiday and we’ve definitely got the bug”. They asked “We’ve got the whole Country to choose from, where would you recommend we go next year?”

I didn’t even need to think before I replied “Go West ! When you leave Fox’s marina turn right toward the River Nene not left towards the River Great Ouse (like you did this year). The River Nene is one of the loveliest navigable rivers in all England !”

During my life I have lived in two towns (Bedford and St Neots), and one City (Ely), all on the Great Ouse, but I must sing the praises of the River Nene. On a cautionary note I must also warn you that “Nene’ is pronounced “Neen” downstream of Thrapston, and “Nen” upstream of Thrapston. As the farthest you are likely to get on a week’s hire is Oundle (leaving yourself sufficient time to get back to the hire base), or at the very most Thrapston, we can settle on calling the river ‘Neen’.

Leaving Fox’s marina you will travel first through the Middle Level towards Peterborough. On the Middle Level you could spend your first night afloat on the new visitor moorings in Ramsey.

Alternatively many boaters choose to use the new rural moorings on Whittlesey Dyke at either Burnthouse Bridge or Angle Corner (https://middlelevel.gov.uk/navigation/maps/). The popular third option is go through Ashline Lock and moor at the back of the Manor Leisure Centre in Whittlesey. The rural moorings will require you to cook on board, whereas both Ramsey and Whittlesey moorings offer a range of ‘eat out’ opportunities, restaurant or takeaway.

You need to book yourself in advance through Stanground Lock with the lock keeper, Tina,  on 07824 600470 (this is the only non ‘do-it-yourself’ lock you will encounter on your trip).

Stanground is approximately 6 hours from Ramsey,  3 hours from the Burnthouse rural mooring, 21/2 from the Angle Corner rural mooring, and 1 1/4 from the Manor Leisure Centre in Whittlesey. Lock Warning !  In the mid 17th Century a campaign was launched to make the River Nene navigable between Peterborough and Northampton. It was anticipated that 33 locks would be required to bypass the water mills. By the 18th Century, when the work was undertaken, 38 locks were required ! But don’t worry there are only 11 locks between Peterborough and Oundle. With a willing and helpful crew these shouldn’t be too much bother. And remember – locking is a vital part of the ‘narrowboat experience’!

Stanground Lock

Stanground Lock

Shortly after you have passed through Stanground lock you will find yourself in the historic cathedral city of Peterborough. There are ample moorings on Peterborough Embankment but these can get a bit noisy in the evening. There is a floating Chinese restaurant called the Grain Barge moored on the embankment. My wife and I often dine there on their ‘eat as much as you can for a fixed price’ menu when returning to home waters after visiting the canals.

Peterborough Town Bridge 1909

Peterborough Town Bridge 1909

Often we choose to travel out of Peterborough for another 1 1/4  hours and moor instead at the lovely Ferry Meadows Park. These peaceful floating moorings are on a lake and you quite often get a good sunset, followed by a spectacular sunrise the next mooring. There is (car) parking at Ferry Meadows Park, and before now we’ve rendezvoused there with family. They’ve joined us on board for a pleasant river trip upstream as far as Wansford Station, where they’ve disembarked and caught a steam train on the Nene Valley Railway back to their car. A perfect family outing !

wansford station

Go West young man !

As you travel upstream you will pass through Water Newton Lock. The adjoining former mill has been converted into desirable apartments (though I don’t know if I’d make it right through the night with the ever present sound of running water without regular nocturnal visits to the ‘smallest room’). The scene just above the lock is as idyllic a river view as you could ever find. Have your cameras at the ready !

Wansford Station b

Wansford Station b

 

water newton

 

Water Newton b

Water Newton b

The old bridge at Wansford carries the old Great North road (a.k.a. the A1) past the Haycock Inn dates from 1600 and is a scheduled ancient monument. The Haycock Inn is named from the story of an unfortunate traveller who, wary of sleeping in any Inn because of plague, spent the night in a hayrick. The river rose in the night and the traveller woke to find himself floating down the Nene. Disorientated, he asked someone on the riverbank where he was, and upon hearing the reply “Wansford”, asked, “Wansford in England?”. The name stuck, and Wansford is officially described as “in England”. The local Inns are now on the whole believed to be plague free !

Above Wansford you come to floating moorings from which you can access Wansford Station

(actually in Sibson). This is the headquarters of the Nene Valley Railway. An absolute must to visit ! The home of Thomas the Tank Engine and a host of historic steam engines, you can ride to as far as Peterborough enjoying a line that has, over the years,  been used for filming, amongst many others, Secret Army, a Queen rock video, Middlemarch, Goldeneye, and Murder on the Orient Express.

Elton Mill chris howes

Next to Elton Lock stands a glorious abandoned mill (grade ll listed). There are moorings immediately above the lock. I’ve twice walked into the village and dined outside The Crown ph under a great spreading Horse Chestnut tree, where I’ve enjoyed as good a pub meal as ever I happen chanced upon!

Soon the English Perpendicular style octagonal tower of the great St Mary’s church of Fotheringhay appears on the horizon. St Mary’s has strong connections to the Yorkist cause in the Wars of the Roses.  The Dukes of York had a family mausoleum in the church.  Richard III was born at Fotheringhay Castle (demolished 1630) and Mary Queen of Scotts was executed there in 1587. There are private visitor moorings here. They are not expensive (£5/overnight) and the farmer collects your money shortly after you arrive. The village pub, The Falcon, is well spoken of for its food. Although (for some  inexplicable reason) I’ve not checked out the pub, I regularly moor at Fotheringhay.

Fotheringhay church chris howes

Ashton Lock is near the village of Ashton which is a privately owned village, long associated with the Rothschild family. This private ownership is evidenced by all the front doors of the houses being painted the same colour. Ashton was the home every October of that important sporting competition – the National Conker Championship – until they moved 4 miles to Southwick near Oundle. There is a large colony of Red Kite around here, and I’ve witnessed 5 or 6 in one go, apparently following me up the river.

red kite colony

ashton lock chris howes

Oundle is a market town with a population of around 6,000, constructed in soft Northamptonshire Stone. Sadly Oundle appears to ‘turn its back’ on the river. But it’s worth crossing the adjoining flood meadow and visiting. There are often slightly fierce looking cattle grazing in the meadow, and I choose to cross it at the other end from them.

Lilford bridge chris howes

You will soon need to think about turning your bows downstream and returning the boat. If you’ve got sufficient time, the bridge at Lilford is as pretty a bridge as you’ll find anywhere.

It was said of the famous dancers Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers  “Fred was great, but don’t forget that Ginger did everything he did, backwards …. and in high heels !” Now you’ve got to Fotheringey, or Oundle or wherever the time left on your boat hire requires you to turn back and retrace your steps – just remember that the “Nene is just as beautiful backwards” (particularly if you’re wearing high heels ?). And like we do, you can always treat yourself to a Chinese meal on the way home, on the Grain Barge in Peterborough. Don’t forget to book yourself back through Stanground Lock.

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hire narrowboat mothers day cambridge

Why not make Mothering Sunday extra special this year by suggesting that her favourite family members get together for a memorable daytrip to March, in Cambridgeshire?

Mothers’ Day and Mothering Sunday are actually two separate things, although they are held on the same day in England. Mothering Sunday is traditionally the fourth Sunday in lent, when parishioners return to their ‘mother’ church. Mothers’ Day first started in the 1950’s, as a way to say thank you for all of the things that mothers do. Planning a family day out boating on Cambridgeshire’s peaceful inland waterways could be a lovely way to say ‘thank you’ this Mothers’ Day (10th March 2024).

Hire a Narrowboat

If your family are new to canal boating, our experienced instructors will show you how to steer the boat, moor up and work the locks. Our day boats are equipped with cutlery, crockery, a hob, a fridge and a sink in the galley area, so you can make snacks and hot drinks on board, or bring a picnic. There is also a toilet, dinette, and a seating area. We can arrange to have groceries, or an afternoon tea waiting for you on board. Alternatively, you can stop at a waterside pub for refreshments, or visit a fish and chip shop for dinner.

narrow boat hire cambridge fox

Our annual boating season begins in April, so you can book a day trip in advance and surprise your mum with the news on Mothers’ Day. Boating appeals to all ages and is a great way to bring the family together.

Read: The Top 3 Mothers Day Ideas For The Narrowboat Mum

Day boats ‘March Adventurer’ and ‘March Explorer’ can carry up to ten people each.  Prices start from £260 and include fuel and insurance.

Find out more about our day boat hire.

Read All About It

Alternatively, if your mum, wife, or gran is a woman who enjoys narrowboating, or dreams of getting afloat, then you may also consider getting her a book revealing the pro’s and cons of parenting on board. When my children were young we lived on board a narrowboat, so I loved seeking out stories about mothers on canal boats; both biographical and fictional.

Read: Five Surprising Mothers Day Gifts for the Narrowboat Mum

Pushing the Boat Out

But perhaps you’re looking for more than a book, flowers or chocolates as a gift? Maybe you are looking for that elusive family holiday; the one that can please all of the people all of the time? Relaxing, yet adventurous, a change from everyday life, without the modern day hassle of traffic and airports? We’ve got the perfect family holiday for you. Enjoy the scenic countryside and quality time together, explore new places and learn to steer a boat and work a lock.

Read: Why Narrowboating is the Perfect Family Holiday

It’s more than a Mothers’ Day gift, but if you have been planning a multi-generational holiday this year, then boating has something for everyone. Fox Narrowboats in Cambridgeshire is a short distance from London, ideally located for everyone to get together. After all, what better day than Mothers’ Day to get together and appreciate one another’s company, and plan special treats for the year ahead?

Hey! Are you new here? Subscribe on the right to receive more secrets of the undiscovered Fenland waterways, by email. (We never share or sell email addresses, we’ll only be sending you our local, insider knowledge, every two weeks.)

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valentines boat hire cambridgeshire

Save 10% on 2024 day hires

Quiet rural moorings and historic waterside pubs make narrowboat day hire the perfect romantic getaway. Fox Boats offer day boat hire near Ely and Cambridge for up to ten people, on the March Adventurer or the March Explorer. This gives couples the chance to escape on board their own private canal boat, or take family and friends along to celebrate an engagement, anniversary or another important relationship milestone. You can even bring your dog! There is plenty of seating both inside and outside the boat, and a see-through cover at the front protects passengers from any occasional rain showers.

If you hire a boat for the day you can enjoy a peaceful cruise along the east Anglian waterways, getting close to nature under the wide Fenland skies. Look out for kingfishers beside the river, and animals grazing in the fields while you’re getting away from the fast pace of modern life.

If you’re celebrating a special occasion, or even planning a marriage proposal, we can arrange delicious food platters to be available on board, from Grazing by Gem. Choose from a traditional afternoon tea, a gentleman’s afternoon tea or a selection of graze boxes.

On board the narrowboat you will find the galley equipped with a hob, fridge and sink, so that you can enjoy snacks and hot drinks while you travel. There is a convenient Tesco and other shops in March, before you set off. There is a dinette and seating area inside the boat. There is also a toilet on board.

Romantic Destinations

Cruising east through the town of March you can pass the windfarm and visit the picturesque villages of Upwell and Outwell. Church Bridge moorings are a great place to stay for a lunch for two. There are also idyllic moorings at Outwell Basin, which is convenient for The Crown (pub) and The Crown Lodge Hotel. Treat your partner to an afternoon tea here, or an intimate meal in the award-winning restaurant.

Church Bridge moorings

Alternatively, travelling west towards Peterborough, past Floods Ferry Marina Park you can reach Ashline Lock and Whittlesey; an ancient market town with an interesting maze of streets. Whittlesey offers limited moorings at the back of a leisure centre and only a short walk from the historic market place. There are two beautiful churches to visit, and a range of restaurants and takeaways.

Our day boats are really popular at weekends so book early if that’s your preferred time to get away. But they are also available on weekdays. If this is your first time narrowboating we will show you the basics. We’re a friendly family-run business, so you can ask us any questions you like, before you set off.

So, create special memories together with the one you love and take lots of happy-couple photos on a day out on a narrowboat this year.

We are spreading the love for Valentine’s Day. From now until 16th February 2024 you can save 10% off our 2024 day hires.

For more surprising and unusual tips and ideas for days out in Cambridgeshire, enter your email address in the box in the right side bar (‘Follow blog’) and we’ll send you articles direct to your inbox. (We never share or sell email addresses; this is just to send you our latest blog posts.)

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At the end of Monk's Lode

I next visited the Middle Level again during August 1984. I set off from my mooring at the Fish and Duck marina at the junction of the River Cam and Old West River and headed for Denver where there were cruisers waiting to go through the lock.

Approaching Denverl ock Aug 1984

Approaching Denver lock where several cruisers are waiting – cc John Revell

This was my first time entering Salters Lode lock from the tidal Ouse and I was grateful to receive good advice from the Denver lock keeper about how to do this on an in-coming tide.

converted mill Nordelph

A fine converted mill at Nordelph. This has been extended but remains very distinct. John Revell

 

Nordelph Chequers pub closed pic 2005

The familiar view as you approach the centre of Nordelph. The Chequers pub on the right closed in 2005.

The journey along Well Creek was uneventful though I recall being intrigued by a simple swing bridge across the river to a small cottage near Nordelph. I learnt later that this belonged to Gladys Dack and her name lives on with the Gladys Dack mooring constructed by the Well Creek Trust on the opposite side of the river. The cottage is now derelict having been badly damaged by a gas explosion which fortunately did not injure Miss Dack.

Glady Dacks cottage simple swing bridge john revell

Glady Dack’s cottage and simple swing bridge. The house was badly damaged by a gas explosion and is now derelict.

After Well Creek and Marmont Priory lock we headed down Pophams Eau and moored near the junction of the Sixteen Foot and Forty Foot rivers. The following day we attempted to reach Horseways lock but gave up when we discovered there was nowhere to turn at the lock. We had to reverse to the junction with the Forty Foot which was something I have done many times since. On one occasion in 2010 this was part of a campaign cruise undertaken by the local branch of the Inland Waterways Association (IWA) which was broadcast on BBC Look East. Alastair Chambers, then Chairman of the Peterborough Borough Branch of the IWA, spoke to the camera while I just had to do the reversing.

I failed to boat the full length of the Forty Foot when I visited the Middle Level in April 1984 {see part 1} and it was a relief to get under the very low Ramsey Hollow bridge without mishap or injuring myself this time. Note that this bridge has since been raised by the Royal Engineers partly with funds raised by the local IWA at events held at Bill Fen marina [courtesy of John and Lynne Shotbolt].

Ramsey basin

Ramsey basin. Gang plank for access to town but nowhere to turn a 48′ boat round.

That evening was spent at the George Inn at Ramsey Forty Foot where we again added our name to the boater’s log book kept behind the bar before continuing the next day to Ramsey town. My notes record that this was easy boating with a good mooring at the end but nowhere to turn a 48‘ boat like mine.

We explored the town, ate fish and chips and visited the Jolly Sailor, a pub which has changed very little since then and which I last visited in September 2023.

My notes from 1984 state “Jolly Sailor. 6/10. Choice of rooms. Landlord ex RAF. Lots of brasses and locals. Beer by (Watney) Manns.

The moorings at Ramsey deteriorated over the years but have now been completely rebuilt to a high standard. There are also recently built houses on both sides. A turning point has also been provided and I have seen a 60’ narrow-boat turn there.

Lodes End lock helpers

Plenty of help and onlookers at Lodes End lock

There was no turning point in 1984 so the following morning we therefore had to reverse all the way which took 90 mins. We then went through Lodes End lock and headed for Yaxley. Unfortunately, and not for the only time, we could not get under Exhibition Bridge which was too low to get under so we proceeded to Monk’s Lode where we moored overnight at the end of navigation.

Monks Lode

At the end of Monk’s Lode

Our view that this was a very quiet spot was confirmed by a conversation the next day with a local man. He said that the only boats he saw these days were weed boats but this was a shame as he was looking for a wife (presumably to drift past and into his arms). This conversation took place in August when some waterways elsewhere would have been very busy. I reversed a short way and turned near an old pumping station. Monks Lode remains entirely unspoilt but the turning point is overgrown so reversing is needed for most boats.

After another quiet day we paid our second visit to C & T Fox boat yard. My notes say

“Helpful and business like. Diesel £1.20 a gallon. Mooring £6.62 per week”

We also visited the Horse and Jockey pub which was a short distance from the boatyard but has since been demolished before spending the evening in the Red Hart at Three Holes (an Elgoods pub which is also now closed).

Outwell approach

Approaching Outwell before the church. A familiar scene still today.

We made our way to Salters Lode the next day, stopping for fish and chips at J R Stott Outwell (still there) and a drink at the Red Lion at Outwell (a splendid looking building on the busy main road, still there but no longer a pub – the prominent Bullards brewery sign  remains) and the Chequers at Nordelph (another closed pub).

before Outwell basin former wisbech canal junction

Just before Outwell basin and the former junction with the Wisbech canal.

We had chosen to return via the tidal Hundred Foot (New Bedford). We went through Salters Lode at low water and waited outside for the big spring tide to arrive. We set off with the tide and reached the Riverside Inn at Earith by lunchtime. I have used this tidal route many times since then all without difficulty.

[photos]

All Photos Copyright John Revell

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Want to save money on your narrowboat holiday? Looking to book a romantic mini-break? Considering living on a narrowboat? Last year on our blog we covered all of these topics, and we launched a new interactive waterways map, and suggested some good tips for family narrowboat holidays. Here are some of the highlights from another adventurous year of exploring the Fenland waterways.

We are assuming that your Christmas decorations have now been taken down and the festive food has all been eaten. So before the January blues set in, try making some fun plans for the year ahead. The third Monday in January is known as Blue Monday; the most depressing day of the year. While there is no science to back up the claim that this day is the worst, it has become a day for promoting mental health awareness and self-care.

Read: Three Foxy Mood-Boosting Tips for This Winter

In February it can be difficult to avoid romance, as the shops offer Valentines cards, gifts, flowers and chocolates for your loved one. But those who enjoy canal boating will know that there is no better way to spend quality time with your partner than a peaceful cruise on the waterways. Find out why a narrowboat holiday is such an original and quirky idea to celebrate important relationship milestones.

Read: 5 Reasons Why Canal Boats are the Most Romantic Holiday

Fox narrowboat holiday hire

Credit: Fox Narrowboats

narrowboat on fens

Spring

It’s difficult to estimate exactly how many UK canal boats are liveaboards. The diverse inland boating community includes middle-aged divorcees, retired couples, young professionals, people on low incomes, and canal heritage enthusiasts. Some people like the alternative lifestyle, others hope it may be a cheaper lifestyle. Weigh up the extra chores, boat maintenance and finances, against freedom, adventure, independence and living close to nature.

Read: The Pro’s and Cons of Living on a Canal Boat

Summer

If you have ever wondered…Where’s the nearest pub? Is there a shop near here? And where can I moor? Our new interactive waterways map was launched last summer, and it has all the answers. It shows where you are on the navigation and what useful things you might find nearby. It also includes images, icons and highlights so that you can always find what you want, when you want it.

Read: Fascinating New Interactive Waterways Map for Narrowboaters

Autumn

If you’re a parent you may be wondering how to prepare for a narrowboat journey, what to bring and whether the kids can steer the boat. A Fox Narrowboat trip is much more than a holiday; it’s an opportunity to create lifelong memories with your family.

Read: Four Things Every Parent Should Know About Narrowboat Holidays

Winter

At Christmas time special services are broadcast on TV from English cathedrals. So in December we took the opportunity to feature two impressive cathedrals which can be visited by narrowboat on a Foxboats holiday. More than just spectacular places of worship they offer a rich history, architecture, markets, talks, concerts, exhibitions, tours, dining and shopping.

Read: Two Stunning Cathedrals to Visit on a Canal Boat Holiday

If you enjoyed reading ‘The Six Best Things We Learned About Narrowboating Last Year’, look for ‘Follow Blog’ in the sidebar on the right and enter your email address. We’ll send you occasional stories, tips and advice about narrowboating around the Fens. (We never share or sell email addresses – your details are safe with us.)

If you want to beat the winter blues and book a canal holiday in 2024 check availability now.

You may also like: Why January is the Best Time to Book Your Hire Boat Holiday

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Bunbury Staircase locks

19 May 1984. Journey start Bunbury Staircase locks cc John Revell

 

John Revell 1984 Bunbury Shropshire Union Canal

CC John Revell Northampton River Nene 23 May 1984.

 

I bought my first narrow boat in 1984 after many years of hiring boats. My trip began at Bunbury on the Shropshire Union on 19 May 1984 and I reached Northampton after 5 long, hard days passing through the centre of Birmingham including Gas Street basin (which was yet to be developed). Another long day on the Nene followed, starting at the Britannia Inn just below Northampton and finishing in time for drinks in the Chequered Skipper at Ashton where a live band was playing. As John Gagg had written in one of his canal guides there were torrents of water coming over the top gates at some of the locks. None of the locks had been electrified at the time and these included Ditchford radial arm lock which involved 148 turns of a hand wheel, once to lower the heavy bottom gate and once to open.  Years later I still find it surprising that none of the endless notices on Ditchford lock state that it is the only surviving radial arm lock on the Nene.

John Revell Lilford lock Nene 24 May 1984

Lilford lock on the Nene on 24 May 1984. The manual wheel fitted on the guillotine is just visible

Two days later I reached Stanground lock where to my relief I found that my 48 foot boat would just fit into Stanground lock (which at 49 foot was the shortest lock I had encountered on my travels and which was the reason I had bought a 48 foot boat in the first place). This was my first meeting with Mr Rootham (I never knew his Christian name was Alan, let alone called him that for years) and then to Ashline lock where the resident lock keeper suddenly appeared and furiously wound paddle gear of a type which I had never seen before.

Bevills Leam pumping station Pondersbridge May 1984 john revell

Bevill’s Leam pumping station near Pondersbridge on 26 May 1984 – cc John Revell

From there we headed for Pondersbridge. Although I had read that this was a dead end it still came as a shock to find Bevill’s Leam pumping station right across the river and no lock to go beyond so we turned round and headed for Turves where we had been told there was a pub. The Three Horseshoes did not disappoint. There was again live music in the saloon and a games area in the public bar with table football and darts.The friendly locals were amazed to learn that we were on a long boating trip from somewhere near Chester to somewhere near Ely and happened to be dropping into their pub in Turves on the way.

May 1984 Lodes End Lock John Revell

28 May 1984 Lodes End Lock opened in 1984. Very wet day! enclosure was built later.

 

Plaque Lodes End Lock 1984

Plaque Lodes End Lock 1984

There was heavy rain the next day and we set off late to find the pub at Chainbridge on the 20 Foot river which no longer existed so we continued to March and the boatyard of CT and P Fox Boatbuilders where I met Charlie Fox for the first time –  I recall he sold me some stern grease in a recycled treacle tin.

We finished up that evening at Benwick. Some of the houses in the main street and many of the gravestones had clearly been badly affected by subsistence but the Five Alls pub was memorable and full. There was a live and loud organ playing in the main bar and a deafening juke box for younger people at the rear.

The following day we went to Woodwalton Fen (Great Raveley Drain) in the rain and finished that evening in the George Inn at Ramsey Forty Foot where we signed the boater’s log book kept behind the bar and warmed up by the fire. I mention in passing that Joe Bugner, former world heavyweight boxing champion, lived in the big house opposite the George around that time.

The next day was memorable for all the wrong reasons. I damaged a finger badly when I caught it under the very low Ramsey Hollow bridge soon after leaving the George. A kind motorist took me to Manea train station where I eventually caught a train to Ely and walked into Ely military hospital and received welcome and prompt treatment. Meanwhile my friends (remember this was our first visit to the Middle Level)  boated along the Forty Foot river, the Sixteen Foot river and Well Creek  through Salters Lode and met up with me suitably bandaged at what was then called the Black Horse at Littleport at 9.30 pm. Remember there were no mobile phones then and red phone boxes were infrequent. Often they were already being used or there was a queue outside or they were simply not working. You also needed plenty of loose change to use them. You could not simply ring for an ambulance or a taxi from the boat let alone remain in contact with my friends but we all somehow managed to meet up at the Black Horse at Littleport late that evening.

After a brief spell at the Fish and Duck marina I was fortunate to move my boat to Fox’s marina where I was able to explore the Middle Level further over the next couple of years. I then returned in 1996 where I have been ever since both in my first boat and the second Olive Emily which Fox’s built for me in 2002. I will write more about this later.

John Revell
8 Oct 2023

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Each January, the town of Whittlesey comes alive with the sound of folk music and the dancing steps of a Straw Bear. A man dressed head to foot in a straw costume parades through the streets attended by musicians and folk dancers from around the UK.

straw bear festival whittlesey cambridgeshire

straw bear festival whittlesey cambridgeshire picture: shutterstock licenced

This weekend event, now known as the Straw Bear Festival, follows a nineteenth century tradition celebrating Plough Monday as the start of the agricultural year. Agricultural labourers dressed one of their own in a costume of straw, saved for the purpose from the previous harvest. They went from house to house begging for money after the “Bear” had entertained householders with a dance. The takings were shared amongst the labourers and most of the money was spent in the Whittlesey public houses of which there were many. The farmworkers often blacked their faces with soot in the hope of not being recognised as their entertainment became more and more rowdy. In fact, the event was finally banned by the local constabulary as it was seen as an opportunity for cadging and drunkenness.

In 1980, the tradition was revived by the Whittlesey Society and local folk enthusiasts. The event is held on the weekend nearest to Plough Monday which is itself always celebrated on the Monday after Epiphany. As well as the parade with over 250 invited musicians and dance sides, there are storytellers and a ceilidh style concert. On Sunday, known as Plough Sunday, a church service is held where a plough is taken into the church to be blessed. The event finishes when the costume of straw “The Bear” is set alight and burnt.

In 2024 the Straw Bear Fenstival will be held from 12-14 January You can visit the stawbear festival from the Whittlesey moorings.

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narrowboat holiday boats fox 2023

narrowboat holiday boats fox 2023

Sounds unlikely, right? After all, the British weather is unpredictable, and maybe you’re not that confident when it comes to boat handling. So surely a week on a UK canal boat is not going to tick all of your boxes?

Or is it?

After living on a narrowboat for 13 years I can suggest what to wear, what to bring and how fast to travel to make sure that you have an absolutely amazing time. You don’t even need to know anything about canals or boats to make this your best holiday ever.

Dress Code

Take some comfortable clothes and shoes for your day-to-day boating. You may be working the locks, banging in mooring pegs, pulling ropes, holding the tiller or preparing snacks. Space is limited on board so don’t bring too much luggage, but you can of course bring some nicer clothes for those trips “ashore” to go shopping or visit a restaurant. Take clothing for all weathers, and a torch for finding your way down the towpath in the dark.  (Tunnels and bridges can sometimes drip water on to you when you’re steering!)

The Galley

You can bring some basic food supplies with you, but you can also go to the supermarket when you arrive in March, or have a full grocery shop delivered to your boat. There will also be opportunities for shopping along the way as you travel. There is no freezer on board, but our boats come with fully equipped galleys; crockery, cutlery, oven, hob, microwave and fridge.

galley fox narrowboat kitchen stove sink

galley fox narrowboat

Keeping Cosy

When I lived aboard, people would sometimes ask me if it was cold in winter, and whether living aboard was a bit like camping? But nothing could be further from the truth: Modern narrowboats are extremely comfortable. Fox Narrowboats are supplied with gas or diesel central heating, fresh bed linen and cosy duvets.

Slow Down

If you’re new to narrowboating you may be surprised at how long the journey takes. While the speed limit is officially four miles per hour, you are likely to travel much slower than that. Locks will slow you down, and you are expected to reduce your speed to “tickover” when you pass moored boats. You can plan your route using the guidebook provided with the hire boat, or our online interactive map.. This will help you choose your planned destination of the end of the day; it can be convenient to moor close to a pub. A spell of rain, or a particularly interesting tourist attraction can also slow down your schedule. So embrace the slower pace of life and begin to enjoy the moment: When planning the distance you can travel, less is more. Don’t spend all day at the tiller; instead make time for exploring the villages and towns that you come across.

fox narrowboats flower donation riverside

fox narrowboats flower donation riverside

Choose Your Crew Wisely

Are you OK about sharing a small space with your nearest and dearest? You may like to assign roles to one another; for example, steerer, lock operator, cook and maker-of-hot-drinks! Be prepared to moor up and take a break if some of the crew need it. Make sure everyone is listening when you get the handover talk from our Fox Narrowboats staff. Perhaps someone will be in charge of working out distances and mooring locations, factoring in water points and shopping stops. Older children can also get involved with being part of the crew.

Even Celebrities Are Doing It!

Boaters on the CanalWorld discussion forums have spotted Matthew Corbett, Toyah Wilcox, Timothy Spall, Nicholas Cage, David Suchet, Heston Blumenthal, Brian Blessed, Camilla Parker Bowles and Barry Gibb from the Bee Gees messing about in boats.

Read:  How to Holiday Like a Celebrity Without it Costing a Fortune

It may be hard to believe, but if you get these few things right, you really can have the best holiday ever. Pack the right clothes and bring some basic food supplies, choose a crew that you love, and take the journey nice and slow. We’ll show you how to handle the boat, and provide all mod cons and creature comforts to make you feel at home. Choose your hire boat now and start getting excited about your next narrowboat adventure on the uncrowded Fenland waterways in 2024.

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Spoiler Alert – There are so many clues in this little quiz, that I confidently predict that most readers will correctly guess the answer before reaching the end.

i. who was named after a fictional ‘ lost boy who never grew up’ created by his godfather?
ii. Was the only child of a famous polar explorer?
iii. Was a huntsman turned ‘Father of Conservation’?
iv. Won a bronze medal for England in sailing at the 1936 Berlin Olympics?
v. Became a British gliding champion?
vi. Ice skated at the British National Championships?
vii. Presented the BBC’s first ever natural history programme in 1953 live from his home
viii. Started the World Wide Fund for Nature, designing the logo of himself?
ix. Was described by Sir David Attenborough as ‘The patron saint of conservation’?

The answer is of course Sir Peter Markham Scott (September 1909 – August 1989)
Peter was named after Peter Pan, the character created by his godfather J M Barrie. He was the only child of one of the world’s most famous explorers, Robert Falcon Scott (Scott of the Antarctic). In his last letter home before he died on his ill-fated mission to the South Pole, Robert Falcon Scott urged his wife to: “Make the boy interested in natural history if you can, it’s better than games”.

Young Peter Scott on a boat

Young Peter Scott

He was educated in our region, attending Oundle School (on the river Nene) and Trinity College, Cambridge. He shot birds as an undergraduate, but also painted them professionally. As his interest in ornithology grew, he abandoned hunting and became interested in the conservation of his former prey.

river painting

Peter Scott’s painting

Birds flying

Another one of Peter Scott’s paintings

He was an accomplished sportsman, winning a bronze medal at the 1936 Olympic Games for sailing, becoming the British gliding champion in 1963 and a national championship standard iceskater.

He presented the BBC’s first ever natural history programme live from his Slimbridge home in 1953. Sir David Attenborough sites Sir Peter’s pioneering TV career as his inspiration and calls him his ‘hero’ and the ‘patron saint of conservation’.

Birds on water

Slimbridge now

As you leave the estuary of the river Nene, twin lighthouses stand sentinel either side of the river at Sutton Bridge. These were built in 1831 to designs by John Rennie (architect of Westminster Bridge and Denver Sluice). The eastern of these, was bought in 1933 by Peter Scott.

At this remote spot, he established his first bird sanctuary (before going on to set up the World Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust based at Slimbridge). InH 1941 his friend, the American novelist Paul Gallico, published The Snow Goose. This was based on their observations of Pink-footed geese at Sutton Bridge (the setting of the book was changed from Sutton Bridge to Essex, and the Snow Goose is actually native to North America and rarely found in the British Isles).

Snow Goose Cover

The Snow Goose

Scott married the novelist Elizabeth Jane Howard in 1942 and they had a daughter, Nicola, born a year later. Howard left Scott in 1946 and they were divorced in 1951. At this time she was employed as part-time secretary to the pioneering canals conservation organisation the Inland Waterways Association. There she met and collaborated with Robert Aickman, who along with Tom Rolt is accepted as one of the ‘founding fathers of canal restoration’. Elizabeth went on to become a successful novelist, going on to marry Kingsley Amis. Her remarkable life is recorded in her autobiography ‘Slipstream’ and several biographies. Sir Peter’s equally remarkable life and work is similarly recorded in several books.

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There are four rivers in England which are all called ‘Ouse’.

The Sussex Ouse is a 42 mile long river which joins the sea at Newhaven.

Sussex Ouse

Sussex Ouse looking down stream from Mount Caburn

The Little Ouse flows from the Norfolk/Suffolk border for 37 miles to join the Great Ouse near Littleport in Cambridgeshire.

The Yorkshire Ouse flows for 52 miles until it meets the River Trent at Trentfalls, where they both join the Humber estuary. The tidal section of the Yorkshire Ouse is a truly mighty river, as anyone who has seen the photos of Naburn Lock (below York) completely submerged below floods, or who has tried to steer from the Ouse on a falling tide into the lock at Selby, will testify.

Lendel Bridge

Lendel Bridge Yorkshire Ouse

The Great Ouse rises in Northamptonshire. Originally it found the sea below Wisbech, via the River Nene. It now joins the sea near King’s Lynn after a comparatively sedate 162 mile journey from its source.

So what makes this Ouse ‘Great’ – in comparison to its mighty ‘big brother’ in Yorkshire ? It was probably first called the ‘Great Ouse’ to differentiate it from the ‘Little Ouse’ which joins it below Ely. But round here, we believe that it is called ‘Great’ because it is simply the only one where you can hire a fox narrow boat!

derelict watermans arms

Derelict Watermans arms

 

The bewildered raindrop 

raindrop

raindrop

The southern and western upland areas of Northamptonshire are the source of a number of southern England’s major rivers. The Great Ouse rises in Wappenham and flows east to the Wash. The Upper Avon rises in Naseby and flows west into Warwickshire. The River Cherwell rises in Hellingdon and flows south to join the Thames in Oxford, and the River Nene rises on Arbury Hill and flows northeast, also to the Wash.

Any drop of rain, falling within this comparatively small area of land, could be forgiven for not having the faintest idea whether it was going to end up in the Bristol Channel, the Thames Estuary, or the Wash.

If our confused rain drop has come down the Great Ouse, just as it reaches Denver, only 14 miles from the sea, it might be diverted into the Great Ouse Cut-Off Channel via the Diversion Sluice and pumped off in the opposite direction To Essex

If you are interested in exploring the Fenland Waterways Foxs have day hire narrowboats and holiday boats available.

image credits Watermans Arms Chris Howes all others Shutterstock.

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