canal boat lock oxfordshire

Couples who narrowboat together, stay together! Am I right? OK, so maybe I’m biased, but I think canal boating is the perfect way to spend quality time with your Valentine. Over the years many celebrity couples have been spotted out cruising together on the English canals. Who have you seen on the waterways?

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In no particular order the first three couples on our list are Harrison Ford and Calista Flockhart, Kiera Knightly and Rupert Friend, and David Suchet (Poirot) and his wife Sheila. The media reported that they have all enjoyed boating on the British waterways. David and Sheila actually spent six years living on a 53-foot narrowboat, ‘Prima Donna’ which they found in Stratford-upon-Avon. Pirates of the Caribbean actress Keira Knightley rented a canal boat in London in 2010 and was seen walking the towpath with her actor partner.

So I asked on Facebook, what other celebrity couples have been seen boating together?

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Bernard Booth commented that he saw Tim and Pru, and Harrison Ford and Calistoga Flockhart on the Llangollen canal. Of course, many others have spotted famous narrowboaters Tim and Pru around and about. Fawlty Towers actress Prunella Scales, and her husband actor Timothy West have been boating for decades, and starred in their own charming TV travel series, Great Canal Journeys.

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Harry Potter actor Timothy Spall and his wife Shane were keen canal boaters for several years, and have been seen on the Grand Union canal. Spall later swapped his narrowboat for a seaworthy barge.

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James Spencer was moored at Fox Narrowboats until last June when he moved his boat back onto the canals. He said he often used to see Timothy Spall, Roberta Taylor and her husband Peter Guinness when they had narrowboats moored near to his at Whilton Marina. He also met Tim and Pru at Braunston historic boat rally and has photos of them relaxing. “We did make it on to a TV programme about holidays when TV crew were filming at Braunston bottom lock and filmed us locking. Roberta and Peter Guinness boat was called ‘A Waste of Time.’ I did ask why, and apparently it was a play they had appeared in.”

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It’s not a canal boat, but Russell Brand and his wife Laura shipped their wedding guests down the River Thames on a paddle steamer. Their wedding was at Remenham Church near their home in Henley-on-Thames, and wedding guests included Noel Gallagher, Jonathan Ross and David Baddiel.

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In 2021 Sir Rod Stewart bought a narrowboat for his wife Penny’s 50th birthday. Speaking on Loose Women, Penny said it had always been her dream to have a canal boat and renovate it. She likes the idea of a slower lifestyle.

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For couples with kids a narrowboat holiday is a great idea. Coleen and Wayne Rooney think so anyway. They took their four boys for a trip along the Shropshire Union Canal last year.

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But Peter Green won the most famous celebrity couple afloat when he commented on Facebook, “I had the Queen and Prince Philip on my boat! Slight cheat as it was on the Thames. Diamond jubilee taking them to a garden party near Henley. Also had the Queen solo in 2009 and the Princess Royal in 2018. My boat is ‘Alaska’, built in 1883.”

Could you and your partner be the next glamourous couple to cruise the waterways? Check out availability for this year’s narrowboat holiday now!

Fox Boats director, Paula Syred told me, “Strictly come Dancing’s Neil Jones and Rick Wakeman and his wife, have been day hire customers of ours.”

So if you want to holiday like a celebrity, Fox Narrowboats is a great choice! Read: How to Holiday Like a Celebrity Without it Costing a Fortune

Get more fun narrowboat articles by signing up for our blog updates. Subscribe on the right, by email. (We never share or sell email addresses, we’ll only be sending you our local, insider knowledge, every two weeks.)

Image credit: Deposit Photos

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booking a narrowboat holiday

Did you go on holiday last year? Did you mainly work from home? Were you hoping it would be all back to ‘normal’ by now?

If there’s one thing 2021 has taught us it’s to be flexible with whatever we have planned! But it’s also important to have hope, and plan holidays and get-togethers to look forward to.

While the Covid-19 pandemic has caused an increase in common mental health problems such as anxiety and depression, our blog offered some good tips to help you to cope.

Read: How a Narrowboat Holiday Can Improve Your Mental Health

For those wanting to be well-prepared before setting off on a trip, we shared a few insider secrets that every new boater should know. These simple safety tips will ensure that your first cruise is a great success, and that everyone has the best holiday.

Read: Get Ready to Go Canal Boating (Even if You’ve Never Done It)

In February the UK government advised against booking a summer holiday abroad in 2021, and introduced quarantine hotels. On Valentine’s Day romantic restaurants and hotels were closed due to lockdown. So some couples opted for booking a romantic narrowboat break to look forward to later in the year, knowing that all bookings were covered by our Covid guarantee.

Read: Valentines: Why Narrowboats Are the Most Romantic Break

In March, you might have wondered whether it was even wise to book a canal boat holiday. This article explains why narrowboat staycations actually became a popular choice. (Early booking for 2022 is advisable.)

Read: Can I Book a Narrowboat Holiday for 2021?

Have you ever wondered if it is difficult to go around corners in a canal boat? What happens if you run aground? How do you turn a 70 foot narrowboat around? In this blog post we shared Zen and the art of narrowboat handling with you. Boat handling is such a fun skill and can be learned at any age, from childhood to retirement, which makes a narrowboat holiday such a great experience for family groups.

Read: 3 Skipper’s Tips to Start Steering a Holiday Narrowboat

As the Covid-19 restrictions were lifted in England in July, there were no longer limits on social contact, meaning that people could meet inside or outside with as many people as they wanted. This gave holiday makers far more choices of places to visit on the Fenland waterways. However, at Fox Narrowboats we kept all of our safety measures in place, including our triple clean boat procedures, as we do everything that we can to keep our staff and customers safe.

Read: 3 Waterside Pubs to Visit Now Restrictions Have Lifted

Does your boat have a distinctive bow? Do other boaters ask you, “What number is it?!” Are you proud to know the history of your boat? Then you may be the owner of a Charlie Fox narrowboat!

Read: Charlie Fox Narrowboats: Where are They in 2021?

Actors Gyles Brandreth and Sheila Hancock returned to our screens in 2021, and in case you missed it you can catch up with their ‘Great Canal Journey’ to Cambridge and the Fens by watching episode one of series 13 on All 4. They started their journey in the town of March, where Fox narrowboats are based, and visited Emneth, Ely Cathedral, and Cambridge.

Read: Great Canal Journeys visit Cambridgeshire Fens

And finally, are you intrigued by England’s legends and mysteries? Want to discover local folklore on your narrowboat holiday? Got any Harry Potter fans in your family? The Cambridgeshire Fens were one of the last places in England where people still believed in witchcraft. Discover the witchy history of Cambridgeshire’s Fens in our Halloween article.

Read: Finding Fenland Witches For the Curious Canal Boater

Hopefully you’ve enjoyed reading these highlights from last year’s blog. Never miss an article again. Just look for ‘Follow Blog’ in the sidebar on the right and enter your email address. We’ll send you occasional stories, tips and advice about narrowboating around the Fens. (We never share or sell email addresses – your details are safe with us.)

If you want to take a canal holiday this year check availability now. We have some great deals to look forward to.

You may also like: Why January is the Best Time to Book Your Hire Boat Holiday

Image credit:  Fox Narrowboats

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houghton mill wiki cc cmglee

What are you like at sticking to New Year’s resolutions? Does goal setting make you feel disheartened? Does the thought of optimistic pledges and promises just make you groan?

#houghtonmill #wickenfen #strethamengine #fenswildlife #nenevalleyrailway

A more cheerful way to start the year is by creating a ‘bucket list’ of fun things to do.

A bucket list is traditionally a list of things to do before you kick the proverbial bucket, but after enduring two years of coronavirus restrictions, we thought that now is a good time to plan a few things to look forward to. Here are our best suggestions for fun things you can do while narrowboating in the Fens.

Learn to work a lock and steer a boat. Locks are easy to operate and at Fox Narrowboats we have qualified instructors that will give you full training during the boat handover. If you’re wondering if it’s difficult to learn the ropes read: What’s it Like to Actually Steer a Narrowboat?

Visit ‘Mother’, a thatched structure at Wicken Fen by Studio Morison. The nature reserve here is a favourite with our customers. This art installation is inspired by the restorative qualities of the beautiful fen landscape as described in Richard Mabey’s book ‘Nature Cure’. It is a sculptural structure, and also a pavilion, that you can sit inside, and contemplate nature. Read: How to Get Top Author’s ‘Nature Cure’ on a Narrowboat Holiday

Visit Houghton Mill, a National Trust property on the River Great Ouse. Centred on an island on the Great Ouse at Houghton, stands Houghton Mill a large timber-built watermill with operational machinery. The Mill is open to the public at weekends, and flour is still milled and sold to visitors.

Visit Stretham Engine, five miles south of Ely on the Old West River. It is the sole surviving operational steam engine in the Black Fen. It was installed in 1831, replacing four wind pumps. The engine has limited opening times in the summer months. This steam-powered pumping station was used to drain the Fens in the 19th and early 20th centuries. https://strethamoldengine.org.uk

Spot wildlife, like the great crested grebe and the occasional kingfisher. On a riverside walk, or in our local nature reserves, you may see dragonflies, damselflies, otters or water voles. Read: 3 Ways to See More Fenland Wildlife

Try punting on ‘The Backs’ in Cambridge. The River Cam navigation for powered craft ends at Jesus Green Lock, but above the lock Scudamore’s offer a wide range of tour and self-hire punting options. Punting is a traditional Cambridge pastime; see famous landmarks like the Bridge of Sighs, while floating down the river. Read: Three Amazing Things to Do in Cambridge

The Nene Valley Railway can be visited from the Environment Agency moorings at Wansford Station. From here you can take a trip aboard a heritage steam or diesel train. This can be planned as part of a narrowboat cruise towards Peterborough. Read: The Canal Boat Holiday That Train Enthusiasts Will Love.

Treat yourself to a meal at a riverside pub. The Swan on the River at Littleport may be recognised as the finishing point for the 2021 Oxford Cambridge boat race. Read: Three Waterside Pubs to Visit.

Cruise over an aqueduct. Mullicourt aqueduct carries Well Creek over the Middle Level main drain.

Take a photo of St Ives Bridge; a 15th century bridge crossing the River Great Ouse in St Ives. It is one of only four bridges in England to incorporate a chapel. Other photo opportunities on the waterways include wide skies at sunsets and sunrise with silhouettes of wind farms against the horizon.

And finally, moor up in the middle of nowhere, such as a quiet mooring at Benwick on the Middle Level navigation, (this village is a hidden gem). Read: Six Stunning Moorings on the Middle Level.

Plan Ahead

The New Year can often put us in the mood for planning ahead, so why not give yourself something to look forward to and organise this year’s narrowboat holiday? Booking in advance can mean better availability, and with Fox Narrowboats you’re more likely to get the boat of your choice. It’s also easier to get time off work on your intended dates if you plan well ahead.

What’s on your narrowboating New Year’s Bucket List? Let us know on Facebook.

You may also like: How to Cruise Your Way into Fitness this New Year

No time to plan your holiday right now? We get that. Instead, subscribe to our blog in the right sidebar; look for ‘Follow Blog’. We’ll send you two articles a month full of narrowboat holiday ideas in the Fens. (We don’t send spam or salesy type stuff – just interesting articles about boats and waterways!)

Image credit: Houghton Mill by Cmglee, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

 

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Peterborough cathedral night

Traditionally Christmas is a time for carols and choirs, candle-lit services, holly and ivy, decorated trees, and children’s nativity plays. So it’s a popular time to visit your local church, or even a cathedral if you live near to one. We are lucky enough to be based between two stunning and historically significant cathedrals.

Peterborough Cathedral

This Christmas Peterborough Cathedral is offering concerts, with choirs and brass, carol services, a candlelight tour, a Christingle Service, and a theatre production of Charles Dickens’ ‘A Christmas Carol’ as well as the usual Christmas Eve and Christmas Day services.

Peterborough Cathedral was rebuilt in the 12th century, and like Durham and Ely Cathedrals it has remained largely intact. It is the burial place of Henry VIII’s first wife, Catherine of Aragon.

To get to Peterborough by narrowboat from our Fox Narrowboats hire base is a 12 hour return trip, which is ideal for a short break. On the approach to Peterborough the cathedral can be clearly seen across the flat fields that lead to Stanground Lock. There are visitor moorings on the River Nene along the length of a park which are convenient for the city centre. (Read more about this cruise: March to Ferry Meadows Country Park.)

If you visit Peterborough on your narrowboat holiday next year you can check out what events are on at the cathedral while you are in the area by looking at the website: Peterborough Cathedral

Alternatively, turning left from our marina you will shortly come to the Fenland market town of March where you will find free visitor boating moorings on either side of the town bridge. March to Ely is about 18 cruising hours return trip. (Read more about this cruise: March to Ely narrowboat holiday.)

Ely Cathedral

This cathedral is known as the ‘ship of the Fens’ because it is visible from miles away as you approach it. This Advent and Christmas Ely Cathedral is offering Christmas services and concerts with the Cathedral Choir, and various family-themed activities. There is also seasonal shopping in the cathedral shops, homemade festive food in the Almonry, guided tower tours up the Octagon Tower or West Tower, and a spectacular 30ft Christmas tree.

But you don’t have to visit at Christmas to enjoy a cathedral tour, including access to the unique Octagon Tower and the Monastic Buildings around the cathedral grounds. While you are there you can also visit the Stained Glass Museum. Also in Ely you can see Oliver Cromwell’s House, which is now a museum, the Ely Museum at the Old Gaol, and the antiques centre close to the river. There’s so much to see here it’s worth stopping overnight. If you’re visiting Ely by narrowboat the city centre is just a short walk away from the moorings, up a steep hill.

If you visit Ely on your narrowboat holiday next year check out what events are on at the cathedral while you are in the area by looking at the website:  Ely Cathedral

Cambridge

Although Cambridge is famous for being a university city, it does not actually have its own cathedral. However, there are plenty of historic churches to appreciate when you visit. Cambridge falls within the Diocese of Ely (Church of England) and is associated with Ely Cathedral. Many of the churches in the city are affiliated with university colleges, having strong historical connections. All Saints’ Church is a beautiful Victorian Grade-II listed structure. Our Lady and the English Martyrs has late 19th century, neo-Gothic architecture, a tall spire, wonderful stained-glass windows and many historic elements. Great St Mary’s Church is near the Visitor Information Centre on Peas Hill, and dates from the late-15th century. Discover the 18th-century galleries and a tall bell tower, which can be climbed to see panoramic views of the city centre. There are many more noteworthy churches and colleges to wander around during your visit to Cambridge, and the journey there by narrowboat is beautiful.

From Ely to Cambridge is about five hours cruise each way. Read more about this narrowboat cruise: Ely to Cambridge.

Christmas in England is a chance to appreciate Gothic churches, choirs, and bustling markets in ancient towns. However, you could also include all of these joys on your narrowboat holiday next year. Check here to see what holiday dates are available.

You may also like: Four Churches to Visit When it’s not Even Christmas

PS: A festive gift for you! Click ‘Blog’ (top right) and look for ‘Follow Blog’ in the right sidebar to get the latest helpful holiday tips for next year. (We never share or sell email addresses, we’ll only be sending you our local, insider knowledge, every two weeks.)

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Hannahs Narrow Escape Esty

If you and your family love narrowboating and canal holidays, make Christmas shopping easier for yourself and check out these unique gift ideas. All of these presents can be ordered on line, so you can avoid the shops this year.

Although you don’t need to learn lots of fancy knots to moor up a narrowboat, it can be fun to learn some different types. Knots and Splices by Steve Judkins and Tim Davison is a great little stocking filler. It’s a small book that teaches some basic knots, splicing (joining ropes) and whipping (stopping the end unwinding). There are clear diagrams on every page. If you want to be a knot-tying geek this book will help the boater in your life to choose the best knot for any situation!

Many narrowboats around the country are actually floating businesses, known as Roving Canal Traders. In the summertime they sometimes join together to create a floating market, and last week in Nantwich they held their first ever Christmas market. The pandemic has left a lot of independent traders struggling, so if you can, This Christmas: Buy it Off a Boat! (2020 Gift Guide).

These anchor charm earrings are made by Ronni the Witchcrafter. Ronni used to be a roving trader, trading from her narrowboat, and now trades from The Hippie Shed, doing popular livestreams on Sundays from her Facebook page. She describes herself as a “HedgeWitch boater with an online and travelling Fairtrade, boho, hippie emporium, selling clothing, giftware and handmade Items. Check out www.WitchCrafter.co.uk

Dru Marland lives aboard a boat on the Kennet and Avon canal in Wiltshire. Dru’s Etsy shop has original art work, maps, badges, illustrated poetry books, and art prints. Most of these items have a waterways theme. I love the Winters Eve pack of five greeting cards which shows a winter’s scene on board the boat. Dru says, “The stove’s going, the firewood’s piled high, and there’s whiskey and poetry. ‘It must be cold in the winter,’ say people who couldn’t really be more wrong!”

For the serious boater how about this leather windlass holster? A holster on your belt leaves both of your hands free to use handrails properly, and reduces the risk of dropping it in the water. This is a handcrafted gift. In fact, Etsy is great for supporting small craft businesses. Try browsing for canal-ware painted with traditional roses and castles, canal boat mugs, or a personalised narrowboat art print. This one says, ‘Enjoying life at 4mph’.

The late John Cunliffe wrote a number of Rosie and Jim books to accompany the popular 1990’s children’s TV series. Rosie and Jim are two mischievous rag dolls who live aboard a narrowboat called the Ragdoll, and come alive when no one is looking. My children used to enjoy Rosie and Jim: 50 One Minute Stories when they were younger. It’s a collection of the stories which John writes in his book at the end of each of the Rosie and Jim TV programmes. The book is illustrated with decorated capitals at the start of each story. There are more suggestions of boating books to buy here: The Ultimate Canal Boater’s Christmas Gift Guide.

And finally, to get younger children excited about their next narrowboat holiday try this Early Learning Centre Happyland Water Lily Canal Boat. The playset comes with two character figures and suits ages 18 months to five years. When it is not floating in the bath it can be rolled along the floor.

If you’d like to avoid tiring shopping trips looking for individual presents, why not treat the whole family to an unexpected boat outing? Our day hire vouchers for a trip on a narrowboat are for up to 10 people and make a wonderful Christmas gift. Read more: The Surprising Christmas Gift That the Whole Family Will Love.

Contact us today to arrange a gift voucher.

From all at Fox Narrowboats, Merry Christmas and happy shopping!

PS: One more gift for you! Click ‘Blog’ (top right) and look for ‘Follow Blog’ in the right sidebar to get the latest helpful holiday tips for next year. (We never share or sell email addresses, we’ll only be sending you our local, insider knowledge, every two weeks.)

Photo credit: Personalised gift HannahsNarrowEscape Etsy

 

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fox narrowboat exterior

Credit: Fox Narrowboats

Now that the weather is getting colder it has inspired me to start browsing the internet for some holiday ideas for next year! If you’re new to exploring the Fenland waterways you may like to use the internet to plan your next canal boat cruise, and daydream about the places you are going to visit.

If you’re new to boating don’t overestimate the distance that you can travel. While four miles per hour is the agreed maximum speed, in reality you will travel slower than this, and will stop for locks, pubs, shopping, wandering and exploring. It can take twenty minutes to work through a lock, and this could be longer if you find the lock in use when you arrive and have to wait.

Some boaters like to plan ahead, thinking about where to stop for lunch, or where you will moor the boat overnight. Alternatively, other people prefer to be more flexible about where they will end up. On some of the UK canal network you can moor almost anywhere on the towpath, but on our local rivers you may need to work out where you are headed. It is not always possible to moor wherever you like on a tidal navigation. Some rural moorings have steep banks which make it difficult to access the boat. It is also impossible to moor in some inner city areas where the towpath is sometimes solid paving or concrete, with no mooring bollards or rings provided. The ‘off side’ of the canal, opposite the towpath side, is usually private land and therefore not available for visitor mooring.

Environment Agency and other mooring sites are listed in the waterway guides and maps provided with your hire boat. Our company is also a member of GOBA so on the river Great Ouse their moorings are also available for holiday use.

If you are new to boating you may find it easier with two or more adults on board. It is not safe for young children to help with the locks and they will need watching while the boat is passing through a lock, so bear that in mind when you plan how many adults are to be in your crew. However, older children can and do enjoy boat handling if they are supervised.

Your holiday could be completely rural and quiet, or include a particular town or city that you have wanted to visit. We provide Imray guide books and Lockmaster maps with each holiday narrowboat. The Imray canal guide books cover our local area and describe local restaurants, pubs and attractions as well as detailing the locations of locks and boater’s facilities.

When you’ve decided on your direction of travel and your ‘must see’ attractions, and towns, you will need to calculate how long the trip will take you and whether it is possible in the time you have available. You can use the guide book supplied with the boat  to help with this.

Alternatively, get the internet to do the planning for you! There are a number of canal route planners online. CanalPlanAC is an interactive online guide covering the inland waterways. It can be used to find local information such as pubs and shops. You can choose to assume a seven hour travelling day, or select your own preferred travelling times. The results page displays a lovely aerial map (by Google) and an optional slideshow of photographs so that you can imagine your cruise.

To plan you holiday select March marina as your starting point, then choose an out and back trip. Select a destination, for example Ely visitor moorings. The default time spent travelling is seven hours per day, but you may want to choose less than this, (say four hours) for a leisurely holiday cruise with lots of exploring on land! When the system displays your results you can click on any location on your journey to see a map and photos. It will also show you the nearest water point, rubbish disposal point and place to turn the boat around. You can also use this website on board. Wi-Fi is available on all our boats, which also have in-car chargers and 240v power supplies. There is a 1.25GB allowance for short breaks and 2.5GB per week.

You can also choose from our holiday route suggestions on this website. Our route guides will talk you through the boating journey, show highlights on the waterways and places to visit. You will cruise through rivers, canals and open sections during your boat hire holiday.

Now all you need is a boat! Choose which Fox Narrowboat would suit your family or group for a holiday and get day dreaming about the warmer weather!

Get more free tips for planning your holiday by signing up for our blog updates. Subscribe on the right, by email. (We never share or sell email addresses, we’ll only be sending you our local, insider knowledge, every two weeks.)

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wartime canal boat regents Canal dock grand union canal

On Armistice day you may be surprised to learn that cargo-carrying narrowboats were an important part of England’s war effort, and that many women volunteered to steer these boats when the boatmen were called up to fight. In her memoir The Amateur Boatwomen, Eily Gayford used her war time journals to write about her time training all-woman canal boat crews during the Second World War.

Read more: Secrets of the Amateur Boatwomen

So, on this day when we think of those who gave their lives, think also of the working boaters who kept our canals carrying essential cargo throughout the Second World War.

Next weekend The City of Ely Parish Council and Royal British Legion Branch invite all people in Ely to join them at the Cathedral on Sunday 14th November 2021 for a spectacular and moving service, as well as a march through town, parade and Act of Remembrance in the Market Square. All services at Ely Cathedral are open to everyone. Thousands of people visit Ely Cathedral every year and visitor tickets can be booked in advance. Cathedral tours include behind the scenes access to the cathedral’s unique Octagon Tower, the West Tower and the Monastic Buildings dotted around the cathedral grounds. During the year the cathedral also hosts various events such as storytelling, talks, fairs and concerts, so check their website if you’re planning a Fenland narrowboat holiday next year.

A narrowboat cruise from March to Ely takes nine hours, and Ely Cathedral can be seen for many miles across the surrounding Fens.  A tour of the Octagon tower on a fine day offers some stunning views.  A top tip when visiting Ely by boat is to visit midweek when the visitor moorings are less busy.

You could also visit Ely Museum, a bright and friendly local history museum, located in the Bishop’s Gaol in the centre of the historical city. The museum takes you on a journey through time from prehistory to the twentieth century. Last weekend Ely Museum welcomed the teams from Khaki Devil and Great War Huts, who are leading experts on the British Army during the Second World War for a living history day.

If you’re visiting Ely by boat you may also like to see Oliver Cromwell’s House which has been refurbished to show how it may have looked during Cromwell’s lifetime. The beautiful Stained Glass Museum is also in Ely Cathedral and displays an inspirational collection of stained glass, from medieval to modern.

You may also like: Are Museums Ever Fun? The Answer Might Surprise You

Our narrowboat holidays in the Fenlands are a wonderful opportunity to get lost in the past, wandering around quaint villages and market towns, and travelling like the boatmen of yesteryear. If you want to take your own nostalgic canal journey next year check availability now. We have some great holiday deals to enjoy.

If you enjoy reading about the Fenland waterways sign up for updates from this blog. (We never share or sell email addresses – your details are safe with us.) Just look for ‘Follow Blog’ in the sidebar on the right and we’ll send you stories, tips and advice about narrowboating around the Fens.

Image: Ministry of Information Photo Division Photographer, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

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witch craft scene

Are you intrigued by England’s legends and mysteries?

Want to discover local folklore on your narrowboat holiday?

Got any Harry Potter fans in your family?

This Halloween, read on to discover the witchy history of Cambridgeshire’s Fens.

The Cambridgeshire Fens were one of the last places in England where people still believed in witchcraft. Even in the mid-twentieth century Fenland communities remained isolated, and some ancient traditions survived. Historically local people were more vulnerable to environmental illnesses, such as malaria, than the rest of the country, because of the unusual environment.

Witch Hunting in Ely

In the 1640s, Sir Matthew Hopkins, known as the Witch Finder General, was extremely active in the Fenlands.  His witch-hunts were generally targeted at older, single women who supported themselves using traditional methods instead of relying on men as others did. In the Fenlands, women were more than three times as likely to be tried for witchcraft and magic.

Matthew Hopkins’ methods for finding witches were  known to be ruthless and cruel. In 1646, Hopkins was found guilty of using torture to force confessions, then less than a year later he died from tuberculosis. Some historians speculate that he was accused of and trialled for being a witch himself.

Ely, the cathedral city at the heart of the Fens, was the place where anyone locally accused of witchcraft would be brought to trial. The city was the centre from which Hopkins’ associate John Stearne completed the last stage of the notorious seventeenth century witch-hunt.

Visit ancient Ely by canal boat: March to Ely is approximately 18 cruising hours, return trip.

Witch Hunting in Cambridge

The Museum of Cambridge is a quaint 17th century museum and tea room. The museum’s collection contains over 20,000 objects reflecting the social history of Cambridge and Cambridgeshire and is extremely varied, from Giant’s boots to nut crackers, vacuum cleaners to folklore objects. The collection has been shaped by those who have curated and cared for it.

One of the founders, Catherine E. Parsons (1870-1956) donated 143 objects in just the first year and continued to add to the collection throughout her time as Honorary Curator. She wrote many pamphlets on local life in the village including, ‘Notes on Witchcraft’. Originally given as a lecture to the Cambridge Antiquarian Society, it was then published by the society in 1915.

The museum is a Grade II listed 16th century former coaching inn. This historic timber-framed building was also once a domestic dwelling. Its layout has evolved over time, developing it’s eccentric character, with winding staircases and uneven floors.

If you’re on a boating holiday in Cambridge next year check out the museum’s events page for dates of local walking tours.

This October half term a professional storyteller is offering a series of free Spooky Storytelling. Read more eerie Halloween tales from Cambridgeshire on our blog.

Visit charming Cambridge by canal boat: Ely to Cambridge is about five hours narrowboat cruising each way.

Witch Hunting in Peterborough

Escape Peterborough is a fun and challenging activity for groups of up to six people. There are 11 different escape rooms, and your team have 60 minutes to get out. One of the rooms has a theme of the school of witchcraft and wizardry, with a classroom full of tricks, puzzles, challenges and spells. You must solve them all to escape the grasps of the evil professor and graduate with a distinction!

You may also like to try a guided ghost hunt at Peterborough Museum, which claims to have eight resident ghosts. Read: How to Hunt Fenland Ghosts, Even When it isn’t Halloween.

Escape to Peterborough by canal boat: March to Ferry Meadows Country Park is a 12 hour return trip, ideal for a short break.

For more haunting ideas to add to next year’s holiday plans, sign up for email updates from this blog. (We never share or sell email addresses – your details are safe with us.) Just look for ‘Follow Blog’ in the sidebar on the right and sign up today!

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ely cathedral visited by great canal journeys

Gyles and Sheila are back on our screens, and in case you missed it you can catch up with their Great Canal Journey to Cambridge and the Fens by watching episode one of series 13 on All 4.

Actor Sheila Hancock and author and presenter Gyles Brandreth took over presenting the show in November 2020. (Read TVs Great Canal Journeys Has Two New Skippers). They were narrowboat novices at that point, but have since taken to cruising and steering canal boats with heart-warming humour and enthusiasm.

At the beginning of series 13 they started their journey in the town of March, where Fox narrowboats are based, and travelled along the old course of the River Nene to visit Emneth, then south down the Great Ouse to Ely Cathedral, and finished their trip in Cambridge, learning about the poet, Rupert Brook.

Early on in the journey Sheila was seriously impressed by the Fenland scenery; she loved the spaciousness of the panorama, “It’s all sky!” They learned that the sea level is still rising in the Fens, so it is inevitable that large areas, previously reclaimed from the sea, will eventually be underwater once more.

There were some pretty views of the village of Upwell before they arrived at Emneth to visit the vicarage. This was once home to Reverend Wilburt Audrey, author of the much-loved Thomas the Tank Engine books. The Reverend died in 1997 but Gyles and Sheila were invited in to chat to his daughter about the inspiration for the popular books.

Back on the River Ouse Gyles and Sheila were stunned by the view of Ely Cathedral across the Fens as they approached Ely. Ely was once an island, before the draining of the Fens, and the cathedral dates back to the 11th century. The inside of the cathedral is huge, and gloriously impressive. The programme showed the unique octagon lantern tower before a segment where Ely Cathedral Boy Choristers practiced their medieval Plain Song. The cathedral was built on the site of a monastery, founded by Etheldreda, a local Anglo Saxon princess. This episode explains that it may have taken one hundred years to build the current version of the cathedral.

Back on their canal boat, inspired by their visit to the cathedral, Gyles and Sheila had a thoughtful conversation about faith, god and their own mortality. It was fun to watch their affectionate friendship as Sheila teased Gyles about his fashion sense, and his habit of name-dropping celebrities’ names.

South of Ely the two friends met an artist and tried landscape painting. Although they both lacked confidence in their abilities they had a go anyway. In Cambridge Kings College “oozes history” said Gyles. It’s alumni include Rupert Brook, who in 1914 wrote the patriotic poem ‘The Soldier’. Gyles and Sheila checked out previous hand written drafts of the famous poem. Then they had cucumber sandwiches and tea at the vicarage, discussing the poet, who had tragically died aged only 27.

Finally Gyles and Sheila ended their trip by drinking Pimms in the sunshine, in an ancient meadow moored on the River Cam.

A cruise from March to Ely takes nine hours, and then Ely to Cambridge is about five hours cruise. Of course you can travel at your own leisurely pace and stop somewhere overnight along the way.

If you want to take your own great canal journey next year check availability now. We have some great holiday deals to enjoy. And you can order sandwiches and other treats to be waiting on board for you from Glam Grazing.

You may also like: How to Experience Some Great Canal Journeys from Your Own Home

If you enjoy reading about the Fenland waterways sign up for updates from this blog. (We never share or sell email addresses – your details are safe with us.) Just look for ‘Follow Blog’ in the sidebar on the right and we’ll send you stories, tips and advice about narrowboating around the Fens.

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Our hire boat base in March is ideally situated for exploring the Middle Level by narrowboat. This is a fascinating interconnected waterway which will take you through the idyllic riverside villages of Upwell and Outwell on your way to The River Ouse and Cambridge. Alternatively if you are travelling west you can head towards the River Nene and Peterborough. Or you could just explore the Middle Level at a leisurely pace, and enjoy big skies, wind farms and kingfishers.

We asked a few boaters, where do you like to moor on the Middle Level? These are just some of their suggestions.

Upwell and Outwell

Upwell and Outwell are two villages that run either side of the Well Stream, and so give you the feeling that you are cruising down the middle of the road! There are various visitor moorings here, operated by the Well Creek Trust. Amy of historic narrowboat Willow likes the moorings by the church in Upwell because of the lovely edible plants. It is also an opportunity to find out about the Wisbech to Upwell tram which used to operate in these parts.  See if you can find out which children’s story book is based on this tram?

Glady Dacks

Glady Dacks Staithe on Well Creek is a lovely mooring just west of Nordelph. It’s on the left between Upwell and Nordelph.

Angle Bridge

Just south of Angle Bridge on Bevill’s Leam is a “wild” mooring, meaning not an official visitor mooring. There is therefore a bit of clambering needed here. Angle Corner Bridge is on the Twenty Foot River between Old River Nene and Angle Corner on Bevill’s Leam: a broad canal.

Some of the wild moorings on the Middle Level have a 45 degree bank and a lot of reeds to negotiate. But if the visitor moorings are busy on a sunny summer weekend you may find yourself looking for a wild mooring, for which you may need to use a gang plank to get to the bank. However, the solitude of a wild mooring can be so idyllic; and a much needed chance to really get away from it all.

Benwick

Carol Sargent says, “We have hired quite a few times from Fox’s. This year we did the Middle Level ring. Benwick is amazing. Love going through Upwell and Outwell to the church moorings. It’s a lovely quiet waterways.”

Leaving the link route at Flood’s Ferry and heading towards Ramsey, there are visitor moorings at Benwick and Ramsey, at the end of High Lode. The public mooring in Benwick, has only room for one boat, but it has convenient piled sides, concrete top and bollards, which is easier to negotiate than a wild mooring. Stop here for the pub and shop.

Woodwalton Fen

Woodwalton Fen is a beautiful nature reserve and wetland site west of Ramsey, recognised for its wildlife. It provides a refuge for thousands of species of Fen animals and plants, many of which are found nowhere else in the country.

Ramsey is a town at the end of the Middle Level Navigation, on Ramsey High Lode, a broad canal running from Ramsey (which is a dead end) to the Old River Nene.

If you’re cruising towards Ramsey there is a mooring just under the second bridge, and a village shop with a pub there. Ramsey is four hours cruise from Fox Narrowboats marina, and is also home to the Ramsey Rural Museum. Check their website for the current opening times. https://ramseyruralmuseum.co.uk

You may like to read more about the history of the Middle Level here: Middle Level. Our narrowboat holidays can be taken as a week, weekend break or midweek breaks. Check availability today: Middle Level Narrowboat Holidays.

You may also like to read: Secrets of the Middle Level Waterways

We are indebted to boaters Simon Judge, Amy-Alys Tillson and Carol Sargent for help with this article, who were kind enough to let me know their favourite moorings on The Middle Level.

If you enjoy reading about the Fenland waterways sign up for updates from this blog. (We never share or sell email addresses – your details are safe with us.) Just look for ‘Follow Blog’ in the sidebar on the right and we’ll send you stories, tips and advice about narrowboating around the Fens.

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